MAT14CSAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I the took washer to where I could lay it on its side.
Laying it on its side lets the suspension spring at the top go slack. Making pulling it from bracket easier.
Next , I lifted the tub up with a 2x4 and blocked it with another wood block. This let me have slack in the lower springs.
Of coarse I saved the hardest one (behind the motor) for last. I only swore a little! But got it to come out.
By the way, put in each new spring, before going on to the next one.
The new springs helped a lot, but I ended up ordering the wear pads a day or two later. They were very easy to replace. Just pop the old ones out of the frame with a screw driver. then pop the new ones back into the holes and you are done.
You may just want to buy them both and do it all at once. Saving moving the washer twice!

After seeing video it was easy . Took everything apart tub,basket,replaced all springs. Tub wear pads. It took longer because I cleaned eveything,took my time. There was a lot of deposits on tub and outer tub also some rust . Put it all back together all nice and clean . pluged it in put it in spin cycle and the motor just hummed. I than check to see if somethig was stuck no .Pulled motor tested it with out a load and did not work. Motor start winding went. Motor died. 2n one in 7 years. So I fixed that proplem I am a new owner of a Speed Queen washer and dryer .

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

The repair took about an hour. My wife told me the washer was so quite that she had to check and make sure it was running. It was like getting a new washer for less than 30 dollars. I've saved Part Select web site to my favorites and will use your company again.

Unplugged the washer. Removed the 2 screws on back of control panel. Pulled the control panel forward. Flipped the control panel back. Disconnected the cable from the lid switch. Removed the ground screw with a nut driver. Opened the washer lid. Removed the lid switch. Snapped the new lid switch into place. Closed the lid. Installed the ground screw. Installed the lid switch cable. Put the control panel back in place and pushed back. Installed the 2 rear screws into the control panel. Plugged the washer in.