MAT15MNAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Replaced broken and worn wear pads per online instruction.also replace tub springs and counterweight spring.all very simple.

My brother-in-law did the repair. He unscrewed the back of the top part of the machine. He located the lid switch, which is on the right from the back of the machine (left if you look at it from the front). He then unscrewed the ground wire and unhooked the old lid switch. He put the new one in place, hooked it back up, screwed the ground wire. Reconnected everything and now it works.

Lifted up the control panel, removed the broken lid switch and replaced it. Replaced missing Lid hinge mounting screws. It was great. Fixed the problem. Felt empowered to fix it ourselves for such a reasonable cost. Thanks

remove 2 screws holding top control panel down one on each side at the back / slide panel toward the front lay it over on the top of machine / unscrew ground wire /pop gray part off machine unplug wire // plug in new wire place part back into slot screw down ground wire / slide top control panel back on / replace screws on the back/ plug up and wash / it is so easy would have been faster but i had 3 kids helping to take out and put in the screws for me /

lid switch was intermittant for awhile befor finnaly quiting..Unplugged machine from elec. then removed four screws on back of instrument/dial panel...lifted the panel and located switch on left side...unplugged switch and removed screw from ground wire..removed switch...ckd part # and ordered part....part arrived on 2nd day after ordering...installed new switch...plugged switch back in..connected ground wire....replaced panel installed four screws... plug machine into receptical and ran a cycle to test. everything working fine.. I tested continuity of the old switch ..it was fine the problem was with the plastic spring that holds the switch in the slot...and allowed it to move thus not allowing the contacts to close. ground wire screw and two of the other screws required a nut driver..the other two crews required a phillips head screwdriver...10-15 min to remove switch and order...less than 10 min to replace switch and put the panel back on. location of my washer allowed me to work on it without moving it...if it is backed up to a wall..it will have to be moved enough to reach the screws on the back.

Used part PS886960. Simple process to replace - removed the two screws and flipped the part that houses the controls/electrical over. The switch was easily accessable. When changing out the switch the wire inside the old connector had previously gotten hot and bonded inside the plastic. Had to use a pair of pliers to separate. Then there was part of the copper piece still stuck in the connector. Used a drill to remove the bonded piece and jammed the two fittings together. Washer is repaired and working fine. Should have taken about 10 minutes to change the switch but required about 30 total.

Replaced the lid switch by pulling the washer out enough to gain access. Not necessary to disconnect the waster hoses. Remove the two screws from the white plastic tabs on the rear of the control panel. Also remove the two screws connecting the control panel from the washer body. Lift the lid slightly and pull the control panel forward. Disconnect the pug into the lid switch and remove the switch. Replace the switch but remember to lift the lid while doing so. Lid has a small arm that must engage the switch correctly. Replace the control panel and reinstall the screws. Repair is very simple.

Replaced suspension, leveling and tub springs.

removed the two screws that attached the top to the base. lean top back to access the lid switch. install the new one; best to have door open when installing. real easy repair that saved me mucho dinero.

Watched the video on your site for that part

very easy, pop up the top, unscrew 2 screws, unplug switch , plug in new switch replace 2 screws ,put top down,finished

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed hoses. Unscrewed the 2 screws on the back of the control panel and folding it up. Took off the 2 metal ties to get the cabinet off. Once off, I unscrewed the ground from the old Lid Switch and popped out. Put the new Lid Switch in, screwed the ground back in, replaced cabinet, clamps, put the control panel back in place and screwed the 2 screws on back of the control panel back in. Screwed the hoses back on, plugged the washer back in, everything works great again.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.