MAT15MNAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I the took washer to where I could lay it on its side.
Laying it on its side lets the suspension spring at the top go slack. Making pulling it from bracket easier.
Next , I lifted the tub up with a 2x4 and blocked it with another wood block. This let me have slack in the lower springs.
Of coarse I saved the hardest one (behind the motor) for last. I only swore a little! But got it to come out.
By the way, put in each new spring, before going on to the next one.
The new springs helped a lot, but I ended up ordering the wear pads a day or two later. They were very easy to replace. Just pop the old ones out of the frame with a screw driver. then pop the new ones back into the holes and you are done.
You may just want to buy them both and do it all at once. Saving moving the washer twice!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed the controll panel,removed back. ,and then top ,and sides. pryed top off adjtater take out bolt in center ,remove top ring of outer tud,remove adjatater and large nut and coller,take off drain hose lift out outer tub and seal,. put new seal in new tub install in reverse order . hardest part was geting sides lined up

After seeing video it was easy . Took everything apart tub,basket,replaced all springs. Tub wear pads. It took longer because I cleaned eveything,took my time. There was a lot of deposits on tub and outer tub also some rust . Put it all back together all nice and clean . pluged it in put it in spin cycle and the motor just hummed. I than check to see if somethig was stuck no .Pulled motor tested it with out a load and did not work. Motor start winding went. Motor died. 2n one in 7 years. So I fixed that proplem I am a new owner of a Speed Queen washer and dryer .

FIRST, I went to the wrong web site, and thought based upon their diagnostics that I had a sock stuck in the pump. The machine would run, but not pump nor spin. Further, I had no idea precisely how to get at the pump, which is located at the front to the machine. Bailed 20+ gallons of water, and a full load of wet clothes out, took the machine apart from the back (precisely opposite to the correct approach) and took the pump out--no socks, pump OK. Searched with the machine Model # and found Parts Select, and its help video, statistical analysis, and feedback. I jumped the broken switch, so I could wash clothes (a cheap piece of whirlpool engineering dedicated to the appliance repair trade's pension plans, no doubt), put the machine back together, and ordered the part off the web site page with the repair video. Wrong part showed up two shipping days later, and after talking to customer service, they shipped the correct part, received two days later. Took me less than 20 minutes to install the right part. It took me at least 45 minutes to repack the wrong part, drive to the post office, and then I had to pay postage, and am still waiting to get my $37 back--oh, and I am out the money for the right part while waiting to get my money back for the wrong part, and paying postage to send it back--and for $4 gas to get back and forth to the post office, and spending my time correcting the part of the problem not of my making. Prolly net/net I will still be monetarily better off than having called an appliance repair guy and getting a stiff bill for the house call, and full retail for the part.This web site nailed the problem based upon my symptoms--and I ordered the part shown in the video that was identical to what was broken in my machine, but was initially sent something else. If I had found this web site first, I would have saved myself three hours of figuring out how to take the machine apart backwards without ruining anything in the process, and removing a pump that was fine. Putting it back together after viewing the video took 15 minutes.....the only down side of my experience was getting sent the wrong part (a lid switch that did not fit my machine, and did not match what the tech was removing in the video--one with the three long lead wires, ground wire) and paying postage and taking my time to repack and mail.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.