BA8240 Maytag Washer - Instructions

First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.

First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the proper color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.

I removed the screws holding the Elbow in place. Removed the broken pieces and replaced them with the new part. Maytag gives great access to the back of the washer so I could easily bring the part into position to replace the screws that hold it. Worked like a champ!

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

You may want to use a lite silicone sealer to eliminate any water leaks at hose clamp but you can get away without it.

Read repair stories on website. Removed front & top to find leak, Ordered part. Replaced valve. Had trouble with clamp.It only caught in first slot, then broke. Had to go to hardware for one slightly larger.

The replacement of the Water Inlet Valve supplied by PartSelect (model PS60378) was too easy.
The key issue was to remove previously the whole upper cover of the washer machine, including the Control Panel, and disconnect all the cables from the electronic Control Board, in order to work easy and freely to remove the inner water hose that is connected to the water inlet valve, working from inside and not from outside of the machine.
Care must be taken writing a notepad of the position of every cable, for not making mistakes when reconnecting them to the Control Panel.

My Maytag A308 is about 25 yrs old and has been filling by a trickle for a while - both hot and cold. I replaced the water valve and that fixed the hot. Cold still running slow. I switched the hoses, thinking one might be clogged, and determined that the cold shut-off was clogged. I replaced that with a ball-valve - about $10 - and it works like it used to. My advice to anyone who installs a shut-off to any fixture - sink, toilet, w-machine, etc - NOT to use a cheap washer-type valve - they tend to freeze up over time and do not close when needed. Same for clean-out drain on hot water heaters.

Water valve on the A308 was accessible and easy to replace. Required rotation of solenoids was easy and connections were obvious. PartSelect
pictures were very useful and price was better than other on-line sources.

Ron

removed cover, disconnected small water tube and disconnected electrical connections. Reversed above to install new piece. two nutdrivers required. Channel locks for supply hoses.

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have more access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

I order a water inlet valve from this site It was the best buy around. The email from the site part came with a video how to change it. It was a 15 minute job. One 5/16 nut driver to remove the inlet valve and pliers to remove the hoes from the valve. Easy off easy on.

Unplug machine and remove drain hose clamp and hose from rear of the machine.Using Phillips head screw driver remove the 2 screws from the lower front panel of washer. Lift and remove front panel. Using a small socket, remove 2 screws from the inside top left and right of machine which secures the machines top cover and lift cover up (use duct tape to secure washer lid from opening). At the inside rear top of the machine is the Siphon Break Connector. Loosen clamps, remove old Siphon Break Connector and install new one. Reinstall top cover, front panel and then drain hose.

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

My wife got the washer for free but the elbow where the water is released got snapped off when it was removed from its previous location. I looked up the schematics online, ordered the part, and it came a day and a half later. The installation video on the PartSelect.com website was perfect. I followed it step-by-step and installed the part in just a few minutes. The hardest part was hooking up the washer without leaks. Everything went great and I will definitely use the service again when needed. Best part? My wife is happy.

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.