BA8240 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

First I removed the 4 screws holding the old elbow in place. Then I removed the screw holding the cover over the upper access hole on the below the syphon break elbow. I reached up through the access hole and removed the old elbow from the inside. I slid the new elbow up through the hole, aligned it with the housing plate and then screwed the screws back in to hold it in place. I had to cut about 3" off my old drain hose, because the outside diameter of the old syphon break elbow was about 1/16" larger and had stretched the end of the hose too much to fit tightly on the new elbow. I then attached the drain hose to the new elbow and tightened the hose clamp and reinserted the hose into the drain and pushed the washer back into place. (I used the old hose clamp rather than the one included with the new elbow because it still worked fine and looked sturdier than the enclosed one.)

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

I removed the screws holding the Elbow in place. Removed the broken pieces and replaced them with the new part. Maytag gives great access to the back of the washer so I could easily bring the part into position to replace the screws that hold it. Worked like a champ!

First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.

First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the proper color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

The replacement of the Water Inlet Valve supplied by PartSelect (model PS60378) was too easy.
The key issue was to remove previously the whole upper cover of the washer machine, including the Control Panel, and disconnect all the cables from the electronic Control Board, in order to work easy and freely to remove the inner water hose that is connected to the water inlet valve, working from inside and not from outside of the machine.
Care must be taken writing a notepad of the position of every cable, for not making mistakes when reconnecting them to the Control Panel.

My Maytag A308 is about 25 yrs old and has been filling by a trickle for a while - both hot and cold. I replaced the water valve and that fixed the hot. Cold still running slow. I switched the hoses, thinking one might be clogged, and determined that the cold shut-off was clogged. I replaced that with a ball-valve - about $10 - and it works like it used to. My advice to anyone who installs a shut-off to any fixture - sink, toilet, w-machine, etc - NOT to use a cheap washer-type valve - they tend to freeze up over time and do not close when needed. Same for clean-out drain on hot water heaters.

Water valve on the A308 was accessible and easy to replace. Required rotation of solenoids was easy and connections were obvious. PartSelect
pictures were very useful and price was better than other on-line sources.

Ron

disconnected power turned off water supply pulled washwer out from wall for easy access to area removed round inspection plate with screw driver removed four screw retaining syphon elbow inside machine pulled hose down removed broken piece install new syphon break elbow secured with 4 screws installed drain hose and new supplied hose clamp very easy great service great web site easy to locate part needed. my wife sells about 18 - 20 houses a year so im involved as her personel fix it man so the web site will be addedd to our list and refered to others

Read repair stories on website. Removed front & top to find leak, Ordered part. Replaced valve. Had trouble with clamp.It only caught in first slot, then broke. Had to go to hardware for one slightly larger.

pulled the washer drain hose off and replace it with a new one. it was so stiff it would not flex properly. Probably 30 years old. I broke the Syphon Break elbow because of the stiff drain hose. unscrewed 4 sheet metal screws where the Syphon Break Elbow goes through back of washing machine. opened the access hole for my arm below - 1 screw. reached up and pulled broken part out from the inside approx 12- 16 inches above. Slid the new part into place. remounted the 4 screws hold connection together. recovered access hole and attached new Drain hose with a band clamp. The new hose had 3 different size ends that can be cut to fit. I had to cut down to the smallest diameter hose. (1 inch, 1.25, or 1.5 inch). Ten to 15 minutes tops