MAV6358AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.

These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Removed five screws from rear of control panel.
Removed two control board mounting screws.
Replaced control board.
Replaced all screws.
Washer worked except for temp control.
Opened front door and removed four screws.
Removed front panel.
Removed two lock tab screws and locking tabs.
Lifted up top of washer.
Unplugged cable from thermistor.
Closed washer top and reinstalled locks and front panel.
Temperature control switch now controls temperature without using the thermistor+.

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

My timer was not working properly, it had to be turned to start each cycle and it would not move to the rinse cycle after the wash cycle - but it did run. I did not want to put out $70 or $80 bucks if I could make it work - but then it completely stopped. (The washer got off balance due to the load and would not run, after bouncing around on the floor.) The washer was getting power, since the pump would work and it would fill with water - but would not start the wash cycle. I ordered a new timer and put it in, which was pretty easy. First you unplug the unit, you don't want to get a shock. There are three screws on the back of the control panel that are removed with a phillips head screwdriver. The panel is then leaned/titled forward and the four plastic fins pull out of the slots, make sure you tilt it forward as you remove it and do not break off the fins/pins. Unplug the old timer and remove one nut holding it down. In order to remove the timer you have to remove the knob on the front. To do this you have to pull the small cosmetic cover off of the front of the knob - which you can pop off with a small screwdirver - it is in the very center of the knob. Once the small cover is off there is a small clip, pull it out and the knob will come off easily. Pull the timer out of the back of the control panel and put the new timer back in, plug in the timer and put the nut back on to hold it. Replace the knob, clip and cover on the front. Push the fins/pins back into the holes, replace the screws and you should be ready to go once you plug it back in. In my case it still would not run and my problem ended up being the lid switch. I figured this out by holding the button down with a pair of pliers and the washer started. I knew then that the switch needed to be adjusted. When the machine got off balance, the bouncing caused the lid switch to get out of place. I had to remove the control panel again and the lid, which is held on by two clips, that are easy to remove (only need to remove one), carefully put a small screw dirver under the clip and lift it up, then pop it off. You can then adjust the button, which has two parts, the switch and the push rod. This was the hardest part of the repair. The switch is not really put in well, looks like it should pop in to the slot, but would not allow the swith and push rod to work together. It sits on top of the opening. It took several tries to finally get it back right and adjusted with the push rod in the right place, but once I got it adjusted, replaced the lid, put the control panel back, plugged it in - it ran like a top. The new timer runs until the cycle is complete.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..

There are two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Releasing these clips allows you to lift the top; it is hinged at the back. Then remove two screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. The tub to pump hose is easily accessible. It is held in place by a hose clamp at each end. Use pliers to squeeze the clamps and remove the hose. Replace with new hose. I re-used the original clamps.

Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

Other peice broken or worn out. Poped old one off and new one in......YAHOO!! back to washing clothing again......