PAV3855AAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

i followed the directions i found online. do not take the screws all the way out! The snubber ring solved the problem. I replaced the springs since i had them. The old ones seemed OK.

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.

A very easy fix. Just remove the timer's knob and skirt, remove the 3 screws on top of the control panel. Slide the panel forward to expose the timer, unplug the wiring harness, slide out the old timer, install the new timer, skirt and knob, plug in the harness, put the control panel in place, install the 3 screws, and you are finished. It took about 15 minutes...

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.

well i used a couple of ball point pens to push the knob retainers together so the knob would pull off then simply pushed the new knob and skirt i purchaced from parts select . their prices and people were great i highly recommend them and will use them again for any other parts i might need in the future thanks guys Brian Halsey Oregon

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

removed 1 bolt with 1/2" socket, ratchet and extensionand pulled old part off, replaced with new part---less than 5 minutes total time

Hired someone. Note: I purchased two (2) hoses and (2) clamps -- this is the third time I am replacing a cracked hose. The manufacturer needs to use better quality and more flexible material for hoses.

For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

Looked under the symptoms .I had replaced the belt 2 weeks ago, so I ordered the drain pump. Pulled washer away from wall, removed water lines, unplugged electric. I removed the rear panel, found the old part right there, disconnected the in/out tubes, removed old pump, installed the new, re-attached hoses, reinstalled the belt over the 3 pulleys, re-installed access panel. Reconnected water and electric after placing washer back in position. Runs like a new machine!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.