MAH55FLBWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

The replacement of the drain pump was very easy. I will not go into detail, just follow the video installation provided on this site and you will have no problem.

I decided to replace the drive belt since I was into the back of the washer. The video on this site was spot on, however I did have to apply a lot of effort putting the new one on. My old belt was stretched out considerably and at first thought I had a wrong replacement belt. Number on the belts confirmed it was correct. Just had to walk the belt on the larger pulley and it will fit.

My washer is running like a new one!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Received 2 seals with seal kit and didn't know which seal went where and online it was stated in a video the kit included a "revised" seal but couldn't find anymore information than that. Installed what I thought was the seal to be installed on the inner seal. Did not have any information on the depth of the bearings installation on outer or inner bearing set depth. Tried to call help line but never got through. I think it is installed right? Guess I will wait and see how the drum holds up and hope the bearings and seal are installed correctly.

Unplugged, turned water off, removed hoses. Removed screws, unplugged wires, disconnected interior hose and replaced old water inlet valve with new one. Reassembled. Repair was completed by my 17 yr old son in 20 minutes.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Unscrew the screws holding the soap/bleach/fabric softner in place. Unscrew the door hinges.Unscrew the white plastic clips that are to the right of the door. These hold the front of the washer in place. Once these are removed, you can pull the front of the washer away from the door opening. It leans out from the top and you can remove the entire piece from the clips that hold it in place at the bottom. Then you can unscrew the screws to the top left and top right that hold the top of the washer in place. Once these screws are removed, you can lift up the top of the washer and lean it back revealing the water inlet valve w/thermister. All the electrical connections are easy clip off/clip on. The hose clamp is the typical screw type.

I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

We followed the directions in other people's repair stories here. Removing the spring was a challenge, as was getting it back on! The rest of the repair was simple. Be patient with removing the soap dispenser. Ours had some plastic cords connecting it to the frame which we didn't anticipate, and we broke them because we didn't see them.

We're going to try that new Affresh product in the hopes of avoiding this repair again in the future. We never washed anything harmful in the washer. This seal becomes moldy and deteriorates with time. Using bleach to kill the mold only speeds the process.

Replaced valve

Working from back of machine, slip old belt off drum pulley. Loosen 1/2" nut to remove drive motor from outer drum assembly. Work motor toward front of machine, while holding carefully, to slip out of old isolators. Remove worn isolators. Replace with new isolators (lip towards front of machine). Re-install motor with the nut/washer all the way up against the stop for the least amount of pressure possible on belt tension..tighten bolt. (Believe me.. when you try to install the belt, it will still seem like the belt is not the right size and way too tight.).. It is, however, the correct belt.
Have a zip-tie ready.
Engage the new belt on the motor shaft pulley. The belt grooves should line up with the motor shaft grooves towards the end of the shaft. Grip the drum pulley and rotate counterclockwise while guiding the belt onto the pulley. At about 12 O'Clock, zip-tie the belt to the pulley.. then rotate ccw until installed.. (about 6 O'Clock). Snip off the zip-tie and your ready to go.

Followed a video

The motor isolators went in with no problem ,but the drive belt went on very tight , your how to video shows how. Easy the belt went on , when I called your store I was told that is the only size belt for the machine model mah5500bww,
Thank you Bill

Pretty straight forward. After disconnecting the power. Remove the back panel, locate the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses [some water will still be in the hoses, have towels and dry vac ready] Remove protective plastic from the top of the pump and remove the electrical connection reassembled with new drain pump.

after cutting my hand I installed masking tape around the opening on the back of the washer. All went well after that

Repair went just as video on this website indicated. Reinstalling the cable clamp was the hardest part.