MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took off the front cover, lifted the top, removed old door latch assembly and replaced wire for wire; put the washer back together. The part came in great time and it was a no-brainer. The appliance repair man sold my wife a bill of goods and basically lied to her. Word to the wise, "An appliance repairman who can come at your calling is one to be careful of, most good repairman are busy and it may take a day or two come over."

It was very easy to do. I took the back cover off. I dissconected two hoses. disconnected one wire. removed a small plastic bag (cover over wires). turned the pump 1/4 turn.and reversed this process with the new pump. It took me 15 minutes to remove and replace. Put the washer thru a cycle and it worked!

I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

First I removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires. Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside. Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft. This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine. Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out. This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

followed the approach on fixya.com. when installing new boot and cable loop, found it easier to remove drum cover from machine (held on with simple clips). Then you can install boot onto the cover and the door frame. Putting everything back in machine and re-attaching the various braces took only a couple of minutes.

followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

First I remove the the four screws surounding the front door. Then I took off the front panl cover. This give axcess to the nuts that needed to be removed to lift the top panl. Once the top panl was lifted up (not removed) then I was able to unscrew the door latch that was broken and replace it with the new one. I replaced one conected wire at a time so that I wouldn't get them mixed up. After that it was then easy to put back together! It works great now! Saved me from having to go out and buy new ones or to have a repair man come over. Cost me under eighty bucks! I was very happy! Thanks PartsSelect.com!

On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

I ordered the grommet and inner door on a Tuesday and had both parts at my door step the following day. Including shipping it was only $64.00. With only a screwdriver in hand and 45 minutes of time I removed four screws to take the entire door off. I then removed the inner door and vent tube and grommet (very easy). After placing the new grommet into the new inner door I inserted the vent tube and screwed everything back together.
The repair man would have charged $90 for the labor and the parts which he would have had to order would have been extra.

I opened the door on the washer,and pushed on inner tub upward.it moved about 1 inch and the I knew tub bearings where shot .So I removed all components and repaced the outer tub with new bearing pack.. NOTE... Not an easy repair..but when i finished i had no probems with water leakage.ALL GOOD.

The boot tear looked the easiest but turned out to be the toughest.
After removing the door 2 screws, and finding the opposing two screws I removed the face panel.
Removed the two screws located under the face panel directly under the washer top surface. This allows access to the top of the washer. A wire clamp held with a spring holds the boot in place. Remove the spring or roll it over the edge of the front of the washer tub. Two screws hold the sub-face panel onto the carcass of the washer. remove these. The boot comes out easily. Follow the reverse to reinstall. This may sound easy..its not! The problem lies in the wire and spring arrangement. You must hold both ends of the cable in place near the washer drum taughtly but not too tight or the pressure will cause the boot to edge over the washer tub. It became so bad I consulted a Maytag repair guy. He said we use two pair of needle nosed pliers. Tried that caused banged up knuckles and lots of bad words. I made a tool that operates like a pair of scissors holding the wire on one side and the spring on the other. If you are interested you can track me down and I will tell you how. The softener still doesn't work. Drat. I will have to replace the computer next. OUCH

Opened a small door in the rear of the washer and loosen the two braces with a screw driver and pulled the old hose and replaced with the new hose replace the door and that was all.

Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...