MAV6451AGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

The installation was extremely easy - videos sure helped. I would recommend this site for appliance parts - parts came ahead of schedule.

I removed the silver cap and then removed the knob itself. I replaced the knob with the new part and also the silver cap with the part. The job was complete.

Removed it from the package and placed it on the washer.

I first had to take the old part out to find out what the part number was. Then I went online and ordered the part. Once the part came in I attached to part and replaced the drive belt. I did not think it could be so easy.

I checked the belt 1st. It didn't look like it could be the problem, but it needs replacement anyway. Replacing belt is very easy, this 1 is at the bottom of the washer.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move it away from the wall.
3. Tilt washer back & support the bottom front with lumber.
4. You can see the belt looped around 3 pulleys. Water pump in the back. The motor is in the right front & is spring loaded.
5. Grab the motor pulley & push it back as far as it will go, & remove the belt from it.
6. Do the reverse to install new belt.

There is a Brake Rotor & Lining Assy on this washer. I looked up the part on this web site, sure enough somebody else had this same problem. Part is on order. If this is not the fix, I will revise this posting later.

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself