MAV5960AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.

I knew it was the belt because of all the noise it was making. I ordered the belt and it arrived real fast. I pulled the washer away from the wall and tipped it back at about a 45 degree angle against the wall so I could get under it. I propped it with a bucket. I then pulled the old belt off and spun the new one on. Real fast & easy.

I ordered timer from another supplier. Remove back control panel. Pull knob off timer. Unplug wire harness. replace timer, still didn't work. I replaced the control board and lid switch both very easy to do but to no avail. The motor would just hum so I removed the front panel and replaced the motor which was easy also. No luck. I therefore called PartsSelect.com and ordered a timer from them and VOILA!! All working great. After all that, it was indeed the timer and the "new" one I got from another online supplier was bad that they sent me.

As a 78 year old senior, I no longer have the upper strength and agility to remove the springs. Had to remove the washer casing (9 screws and 3 bolts), which gave me full access to r disconnect the springs, remove the tub, replace the snubber ring and reinstall the springs. The complete repair took me 6 hours, no assistance and was very thankful for the excellent videos available online.
Parts arrived in 3 days, fantastic delivery service, great prices and fixed my washer for $107.

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

I'm not a washing machine technician but I did nurse a new Kenmore machine for 23 years and was ready for a replacement. Craigslist advertised a Maytag I was interested in and I bought it with the seller's assurance that it worked perfectly. It didn't and I went online to try and figure out what might be wrong. Clearly, the tub was traveling beyond it's design limit and I suspected a spring or two might be involved. Somewhere online, I found the illustrated parts diagram and then went looking for additional information. To my extreem delight, I came across a do it yourself repair video that demonstrated the procedure well enough that I was completely confident I could make the repair with little effort. That video was one of several service related appliance videos offered for free throughhttp://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/index.html/ The final consideration was whether I could buy the replacement suspension springs and snubber ring for less than I paid for the washer. I found PartSelect and within minutes, I had the parts ordered. The parts arrived within 4 or 5 days, as promised, well packaged and in perfect shape. This morning, using the video as a final reference and the new parts, I completed the repair with only a minor hitch. Without the special spring tool used in the video, I struggled a bit with getting the new springs attached. That's where my wife came in handy (after all, she was movitated). Having her tilt the drum toward the spring landing made it much easier for me to stretch it into place using an adjustable locking plier. I actually enjoyed the whole procedure.

My Maytag Atlantis MAV7550AWW does not have a side inspection door like many have posted. After taking most of the washing machine apart I noticed in the front between the top lid and the main body there appeared what looked like some type of clips. I used a butter knife and pushed the V clip back and the one side of the top lid was released. After doing the other clip it was clear that was how to access the motor etc. After the top was open, it's hinged by a plastic hinge, you will need a small wrench and have to move the tub to the side to take off two small nuts also in the front. 8mm I think. Then the entire front of the machine comes off and the pump was right there. Time to remove and install the new pump was 15 minutes. I replaced the belt at this time also but had to lay the washer on it's side. Put the belt on two of the pulleys and pull hard. You will see that one of them is a spring held tightener. I did this outside on the deck as you will have water in the hoses and pump. After all was hooked up I ran a wash cycle only to hear that screeching sound was still there. My best guess is that it's a tub motor going. I am just going to use the washer till it dies then get a new one.

I popped off the fabric softener on top of the agitator. Used an extended arm on my socket set to remove the only nut holding the agitator on the motor assembly apparatus. The agitator came off with ease. Just reversed the procedure in replacing the new agitator. This was an easy job.

Opened the lid and snapped hinge in to place. The part was an exact match and the job went flawlessly.

removed control pannel, traced current flow to lid switch,in but not through, shorted power in to motor lead machine started, ordered switch, received switch, installed new switch, washed clothes.

Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

I watched the video of the repair on this website and followed it. Was really easy & THANK GOD because this was my first repair. This has been a great machine and it looks like it will continue to be for a little while longer! Thanks for the video help and friendly navigation of your site!

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

Looked under the symptoms .I had replaced the belt 2 weeks ago, so I ordered the drain pump. Pulled washer away from wall, removed water lines, unplugged electric. I removed the rear panel, found the old part right there, disconnected the in/out tubes, removed old pump, installed the new, re-attached hoses, reinstalled the belt over the 3 pulleys, re-installed access panel. Reconnected water and electric after placing washer back in position. Runs like a new machine!