MAH7500AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

I referenced the enclosed instructions, and U tube videos, along with gasket I also changed the bearings for about $40. From local grainger, it seems to have solved problem, thanks for quick shipping,

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

I lifted the lid, removed the front cover and then twisted the pump in its mount. The pump came out of the mount and i put a pan under it. I unscrewed the two clamps then pulled one end out. Water spewed everywhere and it was a bit of a mess. I pulled out the two wiring harnesses and pulled out the pump. It had a key, a quarter and a nickel in it. I had not seen the key in years! I put the ground wire on the new pump and then the main wiring harness. I put on the power wires but later had to take it back off, so do this later. I then attached and tightened the clamps. I put the pump in the mounts and then twisted it into locked position. Then i put on the power line. I put the cover back on and tested it, all good. I saved a lot of money, about $300 between the initial service call and second trip to install it. I like this washer because it gives you problem codes. It is 14 years old, and this is its second breakdown. First time was the PC board under warranty. No problems for 12 years, which was caused by leaving coins and keys in the pockets of my clothes.

I followed the video for the installation. I did find that installing the spring was no way as easy as it looked in the video. Otherwise, OK.

Moldy bellow was the reason I replaced the bellow. It tried cleaning the bellow numerous time over the last five year, but once the mold sets in, it's a losing battle. A highly mold resistant bellow would be nice. The available video was invaluable. I would not have purchased the parts if I had not seen the video. I spent a few more dollars for additional parts, because once I got started I did not want to find a bad part and then not be able to complete the repair in one try. Since the bellow was moldy, I expected the door boot drain hose would be moldy also, so, for a few more dollars, I replace it also. Worth the effort. I took me, just under two hours to complete the job, with the help of my wife. I'm some may be thinking, what did she do? She cleaned the parts I took off, so they were clean, well at least cleaner, when I put them back on. This washer was nearly ten year old and had never been apart. I could have finished the replacement bellow in less than an hour, but I took some time to clean inside the washer while it was apart. That's just the way I roll. Fitting the bellow to seal properly was not as simple as the repairman made it look on the video, but that was because he had done this before, probably many time over. He knew what it felt like to fit it and snap it into place. Once I got the feel of seating the bellow, it went smoothly. The boot cable and spring are a bit tricky to hook, as anticipated; I read some previous experiences. So, I thought about how I was going to secure the spring in order to stretch it to the other cable hook. I decided to use two pairs of vice grips to hold the spring and cable hook end. I have two small to medium sized vice grips, which worked perfectly. Otherwise, it is very difficult to pull and hold a pair of pliers closed, at the same time. I sit at a computer most days and am not used to a mechanics world. Use your brain when you don't have the brawn. Job done, no leaks.

The video was great. The only problem was getting the spring back on. It was way too stiff, so I put it in a vise and stretched it a bit. It's a bit fussy but your site made it go pretty easy. thanks

Parts Select suggested the fix with a 99% rating that it was the drain pump motor. When I got the old pump out it was clearly not working. It took 4 days to get the part, but after getting the part it was just plug and play.

removed front panel. removed brakets holding top. lifted top hinged backward. Removed tension spring and cable that secures the seal to the drum. Pulled seal out. Put new seal back in. Secured with cable and spring. Reassembled top and front.

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.

The repair was very easy after watching the video that was with the part. I will continue to use this site for other repairs that need to be done.

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.