LAT9304AGM Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

Agitator motor burned out -- purchased new one through Parts Direct (parts still available) 4 bolts and plug and play wire harness and now runs like new.

Started with removing 4 screws on the top of the control panel. Once open, I found the schematic taped to the top. I traced the wires and found the 2 wires to test. I unplugged them and attached the jumper wire. Turn on machine and it worked. Ordered the part( it came in in about 3 days. First disconnect the power. The micro switch is mounted with 2 screws, remove these and as you disconnect the wires , attach them to the new switch, put it back in place and reattach the screws. Test .

First I took the seals out of the box they came in and let them hang on a hanger to get all the kinks out of them for a few days. Then I started at the corners of the refrigerator doors and peeled the old seals off on one door then replaced the seal by using my thumbs pushing at the corners first and once I had all four corners in I worked my way around the rest of the door, After both doors were done I used a hairdryer to expand the seals against the refrigerator case to make sure it seals tight.

I watched the video suggested by Part Select, it was easy to follow. I had first changed the belts because they were worn but that wasn't the problem, the next suggestion was the lid switch assembly which was the answer. This washer was produced in 1989 and works like new again!

Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down.
Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.

The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.

To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.

Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.

I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.

Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!

Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

It was really quite simple. I found out where the leak was coming from by taking off the front panel and running the washer through the drain cycle. PartSelect website was right on for what part I needed and delivered it promptly. The installation video from PartSelect couldn't have been more clear. I removed a few screws from the back of the washer and installed the new part in about 1 hour. All was good.