LAT9304AGM Maytag Washer - Instructions

I saw on internet that it was the lid switch and how to fix it. On this machine I have replaced timer and belts, machine is 22 years old.
A bowling friend of my father, was a Magtag repairman and salesman. For years showed me how to fix my Sears washer and dryer. When he sold me a Magtag washer and dryer, he said it was a great machine.By the way my dad worked for Easy Washer in Syracuse, They invented the spin cycle, ask Whirlpool.
ED

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

Hi there,
I received the parts from you in short period of time,
take its out 4 screw with screw drivers,
Open the pannel, unscrew one nut with nut driver, take it out Lid assembly
I put it in myself, It worked wonderful,
I do appreciate your service in " Do-it-Yourself" system.

Thanks,

Harry Lin

Followed above listed advice on replacing

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

Very easy, and simple. Replaced part that was sent. It was a simple process, open control panel, unplug machine. Unscrewed the old part, attached the new part and starting working right away. I am very impressed with this company and the speed they shipped the parts. Will continue to use if needed and tell everyone about this site.

I called a local repair service and they wanted 95 bucks for the first 30 minuets. Any thing over that was an additional 45 bucks per half hour, plus parts. Since the washer was 19 years old I thought it would cost around 300 big ones to get it repaird. We could buy a new similar model for about 550 bucks so I said, what the heck. I'll invest the 18 bucks to see if this 80 year old can fix it. The repair instruction I read on your on line were perfect. FIXED IN ABOUT 20 MINUETS.Installed the lid switch, saved a bundle and maybe another 19 years on the washer. Thanks a bunch. Walt Apple Valley Mn

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

Found instructions at this web site, got part in a couple days, changed Lid Check Switch in 15 minutes, washer was up and running again. Best website for fixing stuff I've seen!

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

After reading partselect.com and a few other web sites, I thught the leak was either a hose clamp, hose, or syphon break.

1. Two screws at the bottom front are removed,
2. Bottom front moved away from the machine unitl the top clips allow it to come off.
3. Remove 2 hex head screws from the lid (look up, use a nut driver or I used a socket.
4. LIft the lid from the front (similar to lifting a car hood)
5. Syphon Break is in the top back right.
6. 4 screws in the back and a hose clamp that connects to the pump.
7. Put it all back together in reverse.

I had considered replacing the hoses while I was at it, but they all looked fine. Suggest you order the Syphone Break "Kit" because it contains clamp, and ring gasket that is between the break and the discharge elbow.

Works Great! Saved myself at least $150 in service call and parts markup.