PAVT234AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Looked up probable causes on PartSelect website. Determined that worn snubber ring and and weak springs were probable cause. Ordered parts on a Thursday. Parts arrived on following Monday.

Read several repair stories on the website. One story gave step-by-step instructions for disassembly. Very helpful since I followed this prescription. While waiting for delivery of the parts, I removed the tub and inverted it.

Removing springs was relatively easy. Did not remove snubber ring until new parts arrived, but replacing it was easy. I was very cautious about loosening the 6 screws and heeded the warning about the 200 pound spring under the cover.

Diagrams on website showing expanded mechanism of washing machine parts were very helpful for reassembly.

The most difficult part was installing the new springs, since they were quite strong. One repair story on the website suggested using coins to expand the new springs enough to be able to hook the springs into the upper slots and hangers.

I USED ONE OF THE MORE ACCESSIBLE LOCATIONS (AT THE REAR OF THE MACHINE) TO PREPARE EACH SPRING FOR INSTALLATION).

I hooked a spring in the bottom slot. I pushed a long heavy screwdriver through the spring's upper hook and the hole in the metal support and expanded the spring until I could insert 1/2-inch washers (about 8) between the rings. I prepared each spring this way for installation around the tub. With the washers in the expanded spring, it was relatively easy to use a pliers to lift the upper hook into the hole or hanger.

I decided to insert the spring next to the motor first since it was the more inaccessible. The remaining springs were installed relatively easily.

Reassembly was easy by following the reverse order of the disassembly instructions. I found the tub to be pretty heavy to lift, so when it came time to put it back into the frame, I turned the frame on it's side and inserted the tub from floor level.

I am very proficient mechanically but I believed I could make this repair without difficulty. I think that without the repair stories I had viewed on the website, it would have been more difficult. A spring tool would have been immeasurebly more helpful.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

Got it outside layed it on its side and replaced the motor and belt thinking motor got very hot and heated belt, it was worn from age so replaced it at the same time, hooked water hose up to cold side to test, worked great. Wife very happy

Looked under the symptoms .I had replaced the belt 2 weeks ago, so I ordered the drain pump. Pulled washer away from wall, removed water lines, unplugged electric. I removed the rear panel, found the old part right there, disconnected the in/out tubes, removed old pump, installed the new, re-attached hoses, reinstalled the belt over the 3 pulleys, re-installed access panel. Reconnected water and electric after placing washer back in position. Runs like a new machine!

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Studing the numerous notes under the parts listing, help me determine which parts to purchase and replace. These listings also helped me to do the repair with much ease. Once the front and rear panels were removed, I detached the springs which came out very easily. I then pulled out the tub and removed the pulley and loosened the screws holding the snubber which then came out. Put in new snubber tightened screws, replaced pulley & put tub back in place. The springs were a little tougher which led me to believe the old ones were streched. I used a towel to brace tub to one side so as to attach spring on the low side. Used Vice Grip pliers and could not phathom using anything but. Put everything back together and washed a load of towels. The tub was way more stable, but still, towels were little damp. Respun and they dried. Determined that the repairs was all good but told wife not to put so many towels in at once which is probably why the snubber & springs wore out.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

Removed the screws on the back plate pulled the hose clamps off removed the belt and three screws off the pump went back just as easy and the machine was like new again. If only all repairs was this easy!

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect