MAH5500BWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Of course I looked at you tube to get the instructions on how best to do the job. It was very helpful. Getting the front bearing out was the major issue. It was so corroded that I could not get it out with a hammer and punch. I had to build a bearing puller which I copied from the you tube video out of a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After that the repair went very smoothly. Putting on the bellows cable and spring assembly took two of us. Also putting the clips that held the inside drum on took two of us. One of us used channel loks to squeeze the two drums together while the other installed the clip. I had trouble identifying the tube seal part number. I phoned for help and the customer service person was very helpful and ordered me the correct part. Thank you

I was able to open up the top lid on the washer to gain access to the water inlet valve. I changed it out and now water doesn't continue to fill up the washer when it isn't being used. Problem solved. Great video on how to gain access to the water inlet valve.

1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.

First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.

Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.

Removed door, removed top from front clips, removed front, removed screws holding water distribution box, lifted top, removed valve, replaced valve. Reversed procedure to reassemble.

I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)

Received 2 seals with seal kit and didn't know which seal went where and online it was stated in a video the kit included a "revised" seal but couldn't find anymore information than that. Installed what I thought was the seal to be installed on the inner seal. Did not have any information on the depth of the bearings installation on outer or inner bearing set depth. Tried to call help line but never got through. I think it is installed right? Guess I will wait and see how the drum holds up and hope the bearings and seal are installed correctly.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

The replacement of the drain pump was very easy. I will not go into detail, just follow the video installation provided on this site and you will have no problem.

I decided to replace the drive belt since I was into the back of the washer. The video on this site was spot on, however I did have to apply a lot of effort putting the new one on. My old belt was stretched out considerably and at first thought I had a wrong replacement belt. Number on the belts confirmed it was correct. Just had to walk the belt on the larger pulley and it will fit.

My washer is running like a new one!

Unplugged, turned water off, removed hoses. Removed screws, unplugged wires, disconnected interior hose and replaced old water inlet valve with new one. Reassembled. Repair was completed by my 17 yr old son in 20 minutes.

Unscrew the screws holding the soap/bleach/fabric softner in place. Unscrew the door hinges.Unscrew the white plastic clips that are to the right of the door. These hold the front of the washer in place. Once these are removed, you can pull the front of the washer away from the door opening. It leans out from the top and you can remove the entire piece from the clips that hold it in place at the bottom. Then you can unscrew the screws to the top left and top right that hold the top of the washer in place. Once these screws are removed, you can lift up the top of the washer and lean it back revealing the water inlet valve w/thermister. All the electrical connections are easy clip off/clip on. The hose clamp is the typical screw type.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.