LAT5004BGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

Changed lid switch. The hardest part was to remove the old switch. Wire connectors were very tight on the connection tabs of the old switch. Just out of curiosity, I did take the switch base plate apart just to see what the lid lever looked like underneath and how the adjustment worked.

after checking obvious reasons (plugged in, breakers,) i took off control panel cover and saw that the fuse was blown, replaced it, plugged back in and it worked. After 1st wash was done, again it didnt work and the fuse was blown. I followed the wires from the fuse and they led to the lid check switch,which had a char mark leading me to beleive it was fried. I checked for continuity with an ohm meter(after disconnecting the power of course) and got no reading after pushing in the red button on the switch.I googled maytag replacement part and Partselect came up.Easy to understand ordering, and $20(including shipping,2 days later and about a half hour install, my machine was running

Removed front of control panel on the washer. Found the lid check switch, removed one screw, leaving the wires attached and replaced the old switch with a new one. Removed the wires from the old switch and place them on the new one. Reconnected the machine to the outlet,,closed the lid and listen to it run.

Replaced the lid switch assembly, works like a charm.
10 minute repair, 4 screws for the front panel, one for the switch assembly. Be careful not to break the plastic tabs that hold the right side of the assembly. As someone else noted, adjust the assembly front/back in the screw slot so the switch activates properly for open/close.
Fast shipping, great price, thanks Part Select!

Based upon my research on line and my 'hunch' I ordered the Lid Safety Switch for this old Maytag Washer. Got the part in good time and it was very well packaged. After having some difficulty in removing the one nut that held the old switch in place I installed the new switch, plugged it in and was delighted to hear the washer working like the old days. Now I have many, many loads of clothes to catch up on.

Removed the cover on top raised control panel at back of machine. Checked fuse, then lid switch which were okay. Checked Check-lid switch which was bad. Ordered and replaced. I always take pics with cell phone before removing anything to see position, wire colors, etc. Only difficult because of location on check-lid switch. Hard to reach even with right angle screwdriver. Had to bend some of the metal housing above the switch to get screwdriver in there.

Done a troubleshooting problem online. Figured out the problem and ordered the part. Removed old part installed new part and I am a female not that it should make a difference but some would say it does. Had the old part out and new part put in and it took me about 30 minutes. Washer now works like a new machine. Very pleased and proud of myself. The part was the lid switch assembly.

Remove the rear panel covering the control panel. Remove the two screws on each side of the upper control panel. The top removes with gentle (or not so gentle) taps toward the front of the washer. Lift the upper away but be careful of the attached wires. Top must be removed or switch cannot be removed as it cannot pass the cycle selector. Note the wire positions and colors to the switch assembly, remove them, and loosen the screw holding the switch assembly in place. Tilit assembly up like opening a book and lift up and away from the washer being careful of the lid switch actuator below. Replace with new assembly, making sure actuator is positioned to activate switches, and reattach the same screw. Reattach wires to appropriate places, replace top control panel and reattach screws, replace rear panel.

Checked the fuse it was blown. So I replaced it, pluged the washer back in. pull the start knob that's when the lids switch sparked and blew the fuse again.
Found you on line ordered the complete assemble to save me from the trouble of slowly change each.
Switch out the wiring from old to the new assemble. Line it up, one screw and a little adjusting and the Maytag is back in business!
Thxs Guy for the quick shipment had it in two day on a ground shipment!

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.