LAT2600AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Found main drive belt had a big chunk out of it. Both belts were worn and "gummy". Replaced both belts with belt kit 12112425; no tools needed -- belts are replaced from the bottom. Just tip the washer back to the wall, and there are the belts.. Installation time 5 minutes.

removed the front panel on washer.
unscrewed the top and bottom hose clamps on the hose.
removed the damaged hose. put on new hose clamps on the new hose.
made sure the larger diameter end of the hose was on the bottom.
pushed the new hose into place on the tub water outlet and on the top of the pump.
adjusted the hose clamps into place and tightened them both.
replaced the front panel on the washer with two screws on the bottom of the panel in the left and right corners.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

My washer was sitting in a safety drain pan which made it difficult to work on due to the height of the pan walls. Managed to tilt it back and support on blocks well enough to access underside. Found two of the four leveling feet had fallen off, which was the ultimate cause of the problems from the cumulative effect of running unbalanced over time. Reinstalled these feet and had to remove rust to do so. I added two more nuts to the front feet to hold the adjustment tight. After adjusting to level, washer ran great and was no longer prone to unbalance. Procedure: Remove front panel- two lower screws and pry/pull off. Remove hoses at pump. Remove 3 mounting screws from pump. Remove belt from pump pulley. Push motor towards center of washer to release tension from other belt, and remove belt. Replace with new belt. Replaced old drain hose to pump and replaced all hose clamps with new. Install pump, replace pump belt. Level the washer. Replace front panel. Take the opportunity while the washer is open to clean out the dust from inside!

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Disconnected the hoses , power cord, and the drain hose. Tipped the washer on it's front panel and removed the old belt and spun the new one on. Tested for tightness as per the instructions and sat the washer up and hooked everything up. Total time---5-10 minutes.
Local appliance dealer insisted this wasn't the belt we needed. Thanks to your website we easily selected the right one. Thanks.

For safety, UNPLUG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICITY. First I pulled off the silver cover from the back of the machine by the existing Water Inlet Valve. Of course I had to unscrew the two screws holding it in place, first. I then unplugged the two electronic connectors, careful to note which was hot and which was cold. Then I used my pliers to pry the metal clasp loose from the rubber hose which held the inlet valve into place. It was a pain in the but, but that's all I had to use. I also used the pliers to loosen the clasp again so I could jame my replacement inlet valve from partselect into the hose. Now I put the electronic connectors back on. And then set the metal cover back into place and screwed it on tight. Now I put teflon tape on the new threads and screwed on my new water hoses. Worked like a charm. Not a bad deal--about 45 bucks for the part plus overnight shipping to fix a washer/dryer combo I just purchased for 150 bucks from a lady who was moving!

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.