LAT8200ABX Maytag Washer - Instructions

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way

With the help of my 3 year old grandson, we removed the inlet hoses and inlet panel. The water inlet valve replacement was a perfect fit. All connections conformed to the original part. I had reviewed a video at the time of order, so was familiar with the process by the time the part arrived. The website was very helpful in determination of what was needed to fix the washer problem. Shipping was fast and tracking the package provided my schedule. I will utilize this site in the future.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

Went on line an watch video that described the problem. Order the part and received it overnight. Went back online to your website and watched the video on how to do the repair. Followed the suggestions in the video and finished the repair in about 30 minutes. Really appreciate the help your company give me and have bookmarked your site for future use.

very simple to repair, three screws and disconnecting water supply pulling four wires then reverse steps and done, time spent less than 15 minutes.

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

ordered the part and it was easy to change.it worked great! Thanks

Install new siphon break connector: 1. Loosened the clamp holding the drain hose in place on the elbow at the rear of the washer. Removed the hose from the elbow. 2. Removed the round upper access plate on the rear of the washer. 3. Removed the 4 screws holding the elbow in place, thereby releasing the siphon break connector and internal drain hose inside the washer cabinet. 4. Reached through the access port, grasped the siphon break connector end of the internal drain hose, pulled it through the access port. 5. Loosened and removed the clamp on hose, then removed the old siphon break connector from the end of the hose. 6. Installed the new siphon break connector onto the hose, clamped it in place, then returned the hose into the washer cabinet through the access port and positioned it onto the elbow, tightened the part down by reinstalling 4 screws at elbow on rear of the washer and then reconnected/clamped the external drain hose onto the elbow and replaced the access port cover.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

Removed hoses and inlet valve from washer, replaced inlet valve by attaching the electrical connectors, reattached new water lines, returned inlet valve to its place in rear of washer. Checked for leaks, washed a load of clothes, everything worked properly.

Just as the video described.... Unplugged the machine, turned off the water, both hot and cold. Unhooked the hoses (replaced them at this time since they were over 5 years old). Took out the top screw holding the frame piece and removed from machine. Took off the wires and the output hose. Removed the valve ass'y from the frame piece. Matched new to the original and reassembled in reverse order.

Remove front cover lower screws(2) with Phillips screwdriver. Remove Upperlid Bolts (left & right side) under top cover , Flip lid Back to access siphon break (rear right corner) Remove drain hose clamp, Remove clamp at bottom of siphon break. Remove (4) screws rear of washer around drain hose elbow. Remove siphon break, reinstall in reverse order. (Make Sure new siphon break washer is installed in siphon break.

Very easy as the water inlet valve is located on the back of the washer and it was a simple matter of shutting off the water, undoing water hoses, undoing water inlet valve which didn't even need to remove the back side of the washer and connecting the new part, water hoses and turning water back on. The hardest part was tipping the washer, my sits on top of the cold air return, and balancing on a milk crate. Very pleased with being able to do my own repair.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.