MAV9557EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

shut off supply lines, remove cover on back of washer, remove drain hose from pump,inlet and exit. remove belt underneath washer from pump. remove 3 assembly screws. remove pump. set new pump in place. rescrew pump to washer. reatach inlet and exit hoses to pump put belt back on under washer put cover back on back of washer. turn supply flines back on. should work like new

Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.

Replaced cam in lid. Simple repair, even a novice could preform.

Removed the control panel, top and front panels to access the motor. Removed the motor and inspected. The motor looked fine. Leaned machine back and remove the brake cover following the directions posted by others on this website. Discovered grease and grime on the friction brake, which did not look right. The grease must have slung off of the transmission shaft. Wiped the brake clean with a dry rag and put machine back together. Machine did not run, motor only hummed. I replaced the motor only and the machine now works fine. My feeling is the grease caused the brake to stick and every time the motor started up, the sticking brake put a strain on the motor. Over time this cause the motor to burn up. Machine is only 6 years old. Sounds like a design flaw.

After examining the diagrams online, I removed the 3 screws holding on the back panel. Nothing seemed wrong so I tilted the machine to look underneath at the belt. All seemed OK but manually moving the belt by hand revealed that where the belt drives the pump had worn loose and was the source of the problem. Reading other descriptions of the ease of replacement of the pump, I ordered the new pump. It took approximately 15 minutes to remove the old pump and 10 minute to install the new pump and replace the belt. The machine is back to working fine. This is a fairly simple repair.

Removed the 2 screws on the front panel after unplugging the unit. Removed the 2 screws on the safety cover and removed the wiring coupling. Removed the 2 bolts that was holding down the belt adjuster. Fed adjuster around pully wheel after removing belt. Installed new motor and re-assembled in reverse of disassembly. Plugged in unit and tested motor. Unit still operating satisfactory. Wash about 5 loads everyday. Large family

Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.

Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.

I thought I was going to need to replace the leaking washer machine. Water was every where and after checking the main sewer drain was ok I lifted the washer and found the water pouring out the bottom when i put it on.
After finding out how to get the whole top open and the front panel off I was able to locate the source of the water leak on my washer machine. The cause was split in the plastic hose that goes from the tub to the pump. After the new hose arived I was able to replace it within 10 minutes. So far so good. Thank you Part Select.

This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

Turn off water and unplug washer. Use putty knife to release the catches in order to lift the top. Remove the screw that holds the entire assembly to the back of the washer. Pull the valve assembly forward in order to make the remaining repairs easier. Next remove the screw that allows you to separate the front water difuser from the valve bracket. The last is a phillips screw that holds the valve/solenoid to the mounting bracket. Reverse these steps to install the new part.