NTW4516FW3 Maytag Washer - Instructions

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.

I removed dispenser for softener, then pulled cap inside upper agitator, I was able to get my fingers in the grips and pull firmly to unseat it. (disgard o-ring it comes with the repair kit). I then removed the bolt from center and grabbed the bottom of the lower agitator and gave it a good tug to release the whole unit. If that don't work you can get a flat tip screwdriver between the two sections and pry up slightly. Once it was all loose I removed the upper assembly taking care to to remember how all the pieces were assembled. replaced everything in the same order and when it came time to reinstall the inner cap and seal I made sure I put the cap in straight. Also if the seal doesn't cooperate you can use a little liquid soap to lubricate it. you dont want to use grease because it could possibly get on the clothes (the softener sits in there)! You can use the tip of the screwdriver to tuck the oring in if that doesn't work but be very careful

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Replaced the suspension rods not an easy task but very rewarding to hear it running quiet again when spinning.

popped off softener cap, easy. Pulled out clear plastic sealer, removed nut holding agitator in, pulled out agitator. Removed cam holder, new cam bearing etc in, reverse removal done, piece of cake.

was really simple like others before me described. Removed cap to excess recessed bolt. Once that was out of the way pulled up gently on agitator and disassembled the agitator from base. Actually repair only took about 8 minutes. Working like new again and that keeps everybody happy! Thanks again.

Remove upper rear panel with drill driver and 1/4" nut driver bit. using the angle bit holder and torx bit remove the two screws holding the assembly in place. Slide out the old assembly and disconnect the wiring harness at the machine. Slide new assembly in place. While holding it down start both screws by hand, then use the driver/angle holder to tighten screws. Reattach the wiring harness and rear plate(s).

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

Had no problem. The instructions included with the repair parts were very easy to follow and even specified the tools to use. I had it done, back on the washer and washing clothes in about a half an hour. The down side(no fault of the parts) was that the entire pump system went out on the second load and we wound up with a new Whirpool washer, since repairs were more than the machine was worth. Thanks Parts select for your help. I plan to search your net for more products. Fixing things from engines to microswitches is a hobby for me.

took off the soap dispenser, removed the agitator using a 7/16" socket with an extension. replaced the old top agitator dogs and retaining ring with new ones, re-installed top agitator on bottom, thenput whole assembly back shaft, dropped in bold and tightened. whole experience was fast and simple. the parts came fast and where a perfect fit.

Removed the old and replaced with new

I bought the cog kit. Nice directions on how to assemble but their were no instruction on how to disassemble the agitator. I wound up replacing the whole agitator for $60 vs $6 for the parts I needed. The agitator had only one nut (which you had to take off to get at the cog assembly anyway. The agitator is the way to go. The cogs are halfway down the top part of agitator with no way the get them out without a special tool or ruining the bottom part of the agitator as the clips are part of the bottom piece. If you need special tools they should be listed. If you need to be a trained technician that should also be stated. To give you parts in the middle of an assembly with no instruction on how to put them in the assembly is plain wrong.