LAT8234AAM Maytag Washer - Instructions

Good.

I checked out the reason why it was not providing hot water then went to this site and found out that it was most likely a water intake valve. I am hardly a do-it-yourselfer, but after watching the "how to" video, I figured why not? The valve arrived in two days, and it was quite easy to do. We now have hot water again.

Power cord out, of course.Popped off the front panel, swinging bottom outward. Wedge shaped protrusions on top of front panel work as a hinge until the bottom is swung out and the entire front lowered. Unscrewed the top--one screw in each front corner accessed from the front opening (removed panel). Panel behind control panel must be removed (5 hex head screws). Tilted front of top up revealing broken injector. Retaining screw for injector accessible from behind control panel loosened and broken injector assembly removed. New (easily assembled--snap together) injector slid into holding slot on one side and screwed down with previously removed hex screw. Reassemble in reverse.

I thought it was going to be next to impossible to find a replacement part for an older washer. So my first attempt was to try to epoxy the original part, but the epoxy didn't hold up to the stress. I began thinking about what I might need to make a replacement part which was possible but not very practical. Although I dreaded trying to find this part online, I was very surprised and elated to happen upon PartSelect! Oh, by the way, this washer belongs to my daughter and I nave tossed the paper I wrote the model number on, so the model number was entered as the part number, sorry. At any rate, the the part was reasonable priced, and shipping about standard, but I still saved a lot by doing it myself rather than having a repair person for something this simple. Partselect online lookup made it easy to find the model and drawings to help me find the correct part nomenclature. AND, the part was in stock! So I am pleased with how this venture worked out.

I disconnected both water hoses from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the panel that holds the water inlet valve. After disconnecting the two electrical connections from the valve and replacing it with the new unit, the job was done.

Tried the water level control first. didn't fix it.
Then replaced the air tube for tub fill volume.

The thing here is that it didn't have a hole in it nor was it blocked where you couldn't blow through it.
The prolbem was that at the tub end it has a larger diameter and that was nearly filled with softener residue so it changed the air volume.
That reduced air volume caused the air pressure to be wrong to the water level sensor.
My most useful tool was a magnet mount flashligt inside the cabinet so I could see to get the hose back on.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

Unplug the washing machine , disconnect the water hoses, and remove two screws. Then remove the bracket and valve from its area. Remove the electrical connections and the small hose, and then reverse the procedures with the new water valve.Plug the washing machine electrical cord in , and hopefully savor the positive results.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

First, using a phillips head screwdriver, I removed the four screws on the top of the control panel and tilted it forward to access the timer. Next, I removed the button on the face of the control knob and removed the retaining clip. Next, I unscrewed the screws holding the timer on the control panel using a nutdriver. I then pulled the wire harness off of the broken timer and discarded it. I then plugged the wire harness into the new timer, placed the new timer back in place and secured it with the two screws. I then tilted the front panel back up into place and secured it with the four screws. Finally, I replaced the knob, retaining clip, and cover. The washer works like it is brand new! Gotta love a good ol' Maytag!!!!! It was easy and I'm a girl!

Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.

I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.

I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.

Tom Nelson
Fort Worth, TX