F1271FDS8 LG Washer - Instructions

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Opened rear compartment of washer and observed problem with drum shaft slipping inside of plastic motor assembly. The plastic teeth used to secure drum shaft were worn down. The part I needed was sent as an assembly but should have been sent separately for a much lower cost? The new part looked like it was of a sturdier design. All in all I saved hundreds of dollars repairing the washer my self. The woman I spoke to on the phone was really nice and very helpful.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

Basic skill

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
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PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.

My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

The pump is apparently used for more than one washer, and the R&R instructions may be significantly different. I found a youtube video for my exact washer.

Removed the top, the front, got to the pump, removed it and replace it with the new one.

Found the part of Part Select by describing the problem. used a Utube video and step by step we were able to take apart, replace and put back everything with just a screw driver - I saved so much money!