WT1901CW LG Washer - Instructions

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

On repair of (replacing one of the MEF62462103 hinges) the previous comments and instructions were good and fairly accurate. However, in addition to having to remove the two screws on the top front so the entire top assemble can be lifted, there are two short screws on the back of the washer towards the top on each side that need to be removed. That way you can tilt the entire top up enough to get to the two underneath phillips head screws for each hinge. It’s okay to leave all the hoses connected and good to have a second person hold the top tilted up so you can get to the hinge screws. It took about 30 minutes to change one hinge for me and my helper.

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

I first fixed the stator coil by repairing the cut coil spots at 2 location using solder and with a bit of equivalent wires to extend with heat shrink sleeving to extend over the iron core. Next, I assembled the new coupling in the new coupling assembly with a bit grease around cogs. Wached few videos to see orientation since mine was broken assembly and wasn't certain how it sits inside. Once oriented and seated right, I wiggled to sit in properly over the stator cog..I felt the stator cogs with coupling locked to the shaft. After that I secured the main nut and connected the appliance. All worked perfectly after that. Thanks for sending the ordered parts. Now the washing machine is strong and solid in its agitation.

I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

Description provided on website was that repair was similar to another washing machine where you press in on spring clips to release top of machine to access hinge. Not correct at all.

There are two screws on top of machine that are covered by caps. Remove caps and then remove screws. Lift up / prop up machine top and you have easier access to 2 screws that hold plastic hinge in place. Remove screws and replace hinge and replace screws. Took me longer to figure out I had incorrect directions than it did to replace hinge.

Removed 2 hidden screws from the top panel.
Lifted top panel.
The first screw came out easy, the second one gave me trouble.
It is best to help a helper who can hold the lid open as much as possible.
To insert the new screws takes patience as they might fall very easily.
Overall, not that difficult - just need patience.

Very close to the installation video online at Parts Select. Removed the back panel, unclipped the hose from the inner fitting and replaced with the rear hose. Why it didn;t leak on the inside is interesting as there was no clip on the at the inner fitting.
The one difference from the existing install video online was that I didn't have to tip the washer over ~75 degs before replacing. I instead found that I could put to cinder blocks under the back edge to replace the drain hose. This made the job quicker without having to worry about having a box for it to rest on (with any risk of falling to the floor).

Tried to remove adjitator but it was stuck. Could not find any professional method of pulling it. There must be some type of puller,

Removed both slow closing latches (3 Phillips head screws each) and lifted off the lid.
Pried off the two plastic caps on the top front of the machine. They are about 1/2" or so in diameter and I used a very thin flat head screwdriver to remove.
Unscrewed the Phillips head screw under each plastic cap.
Popped the two plastic covers (with the warning labels) off the hinges/closing mechanisms with thin flat head screwdriver.
Pulled dryer out from wall, unplugged the unit from the A/Power, and removed the phillips head screw on each side of the washer back.
Lifted off the washer top with the aid of assistant to hold close to the machine. Be careful with the cable that leads to the control panel.
On the underside of the top, I removed the two Phillips head screws holding the broken hinge and pushed it out from the top.
Replaced the hinge and re-inserted and tightened the two Phillips screws holding it in. Took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the top of the washer tub.
Re-installed the two back and two front screws that hold down the top and popped the two plastic covers on the top.
Moved the lid back into place and slid the slow closing latches back into place and reinstalled the 3 screws in each one. Note how the latch goes back into the hinge. Snapped the two covers back into place.
Plugged in the machine and pushed it back into place.
Lid soft closes perfectly now.