WT1701CW LG Washer - Instructions

The base assembly was easy to repair tip the washer on its side and took the screws out the bottom and two wires and a sensor off the old base assembly that was broken and replaced it the the way I took it off easy install. And they got great costumer service as well will be back for other parts.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

Description provided on website was that repair was similar to another washing machine where you press in on spring clips to release top of machine to access hinge. Not correct at all.

There are two screws on top of machine that are covered by caps. Remove caps and then remove screws. Lift up / prop up machine top and you have easier access to 2 screws that hold plastic hinge in place. Remove screws and replace hinge and replace screws. Took me longer to figure out I had incorrect directions than it did to replace hinge.

Removed 2 hidden screws from the top panel.
Lifted top panel.
The first screw came out easy, the second one gave me trouble.
It is best to help a helper who can hold the lid open as much as possible.
To insert the new screws takes patience as they might fall very easily.
Overall, not that difficult - just need patience.

turn off the water, unplug washer from power. remove two screws holding rear top plate. Here's the hard part. Pry the rear top plate from the top of the washer. It has multiple snap in guides across the front edge and they are very tight. Be careful and apply steady pressure straight up and they will eventually come free.
I marked each of the electrical inputs going to the old valve before removing. Remove the wiring harness. Again be careful and ease them off. the connectors
come apart easily. Remove the hose clamps with pliers and slip off the hoses. They are long enough that I trimmed off the soft ends of the old hoses and still had plenty of hose to reconnect. Remove the filler hoses. Remove the screws holding the valve to the machine. Re install the new valve in reverse order. Goes back in very easily.
Make sure to secure all the hoses. Run a wash cycle with an empty tub to make sure everything is working properly and nothing is leaking. Snap the rear top plate back into position and secure with the two screws Should take less than a couple of hours to do this job. Again the hardest part is getting the rear top plate off.

Very simple repair after watching YouTube video on how to complete repair.

Remove cover over associated hinge pin assembly and the hinge assembly behind it. With the lid open, remove 4 screws holding on the top assembly, lift and rotate it on its wire cable side and rest it on the machine top frame (it may be necessary to remove the 2 cable restrainers to gain enough play to do this - you will have to remove the large rear cover to accomplish this and be able to reinstall these restrainers). Remove 2 screws fastening the broken hinge pin receptor, install new unit, and fasten with these 2 screws. Install top assembly and a new/repaired hinge pin assembly (most likely the reason for the broken hinge pin receptor).. Replace cable restrainers and rear cover if it was necessary to remove them. Note: These hinge pin assemblies are sold as a set (1 left, 1 right; they are not interchangeable and are expensive). Time to do repair = about 30 minutes.

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!

unplugged machine, turned off water valves. Moved machine away from the wall. Disconnected supply lines. Removed cover housing water valve assembly.
Took a picture with phone. Disconnected water and electrical wires. Removed water valve assembly . Installed new assembly ,cover and reconnected supply lines, plugged power cord in, turned on water supply valves. Done.

The old dispenser is removed by slightly raising the front as you pull it out of the housing slot. To install the new dispenser, keep the front slightly tilted up and insert the new dispenser into the housing alot

The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.