WM5000HWA LG Washer - Instructions

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

I unplugged the washer, and removed the top of the washer by removing the two screws securing the top to the washer. You'll find them inside the two plastic pieces on the rear of the top. Remove only the bottom two screws in each plastic piece and slide the lid to the rear a few inches then lift straight up to remove the lid. Disconnect the water hose from the rear of the inlet valve assembly then remove the two screws in the rear of the old water valve bracket that attach it to the washer. Pull the old unit inside the washer and set the new unit on top of the old. Swap over the electrical connections to the new water valve assembly, matching the locations where the connectors were originally. Then swapped over the water lines from the old unit to the new unit using common pliers to compress the hose claps. Finally, attach the new unit to the washer with the two rear screws. Replace the water hose and the top, and the unit is ready to test.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

I watched a video of how to replace the pump and it showed taking the top and front off to get to it. I actually found this could be done by removing the back panel from the washer. There were two hose clamps you have to squeeze and slide up and two wires going to the pump. There are three screws holding the pump that need to be removed from the front of the washer. Once these are removed all you have to do is push a tab down and the motor slide right out. The pump assembly can also be reached from the bottom of the washer.

The difficult part was finding the leak since it was very small and the washer was completely wet around the frame at the bottom. After completely drying everything off and waiting an hour-nothing.I had assumed the leak was in the bottom area around the hoses when actually the leak was the cold water valve[top rear] seeping,then dripping on the drum and dripping onto the frame 8 inches away.I ordered the valve about 10:30am online, the next day at 1pm it arrived. Very easy to install in 15 minutes.

Hot water valve was leaking when washer was not in use and flooded floor. Advised owner to replace hit and cold water valve same time since only hot valve was bad. Hot water was easy but cold was difficult because it has the bleach and softener valve attached in one unto with three hoses and three wire connections. The opening at back of machine was small and you must have small hands to replace them. If not, then you have to remove top cover to get to it which is extensive.

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

Took dryer from stack to floor removed top of washer and front . replaced water valve at top rear @ motor on bottom front left . It was pretty darn easy ..

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.