WM3570HVA (00) LG Washer - Instructions

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

Very simple. Watched video.
Pulled the washer out to get behind it.
Turned off water supply, unplugged it.
Unscrewed the screwesholding the top in place, slid top back, lifted it off.
Used pliers to open the clamps holding the pipes to the valve - one at a time. And fitted the pipes to new valve, one at a time.
SOME WATER REMAINS IN THESE PIPES, SO PUT A TOWEL UNDERNEATH TO CATCH IT.
Removed the electrical connectors one at a time and fitted them to the new valve one at a time.
Did same to the hot valve - not leaking but decided to replace it before it did leak.
Reattached water supply hoses and electric plug.
Tested the washer cycle to make sure no leaks.
Put top back on and pushed washer back to wall.
Apart from the testing, the whole job took 25 minutes.
The parts arrived on Day 2 after the order.
VERY PLEASED WITH EVERYTHING!

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

bought a position sensor
top load machine when i tipped the machine over i found
the nut and washer on the floor .replaced the sensor and nut
took about half an hour

Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.

Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.

Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.

Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.

Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.

Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.

Followed this video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g
The video was very good. Watch, stop, follow steps when doing the disassembly

Removed items step by step in sequence as per video to get to baskets . Knocked out bearings and gasket seal. Replaced new parts and in reverse reassembled as per video. Very difficult without video to follow. My bearings were easy to remove but some are frozen in so will need oil ,bars or pipe to fit opening to drive out old bearings. Use camera and notes of sequence to aid in reinstall. Separate and mark fasteners as removed. Note : Was initially told by appl Insurance service person my bearings were bad because when attempting to spin a noise was heard and this not covered by plan ,but I found the motor position sensor had failed by testing it with multimeter which is a low priced part and easily accessable from back. Water hose screens partially clogged also. Canceled Appl service contract.

Removing the tub from the bearings was difficult, use penetrating oil, and have someone wail on the drum shaft (bolt inserted). The toughest part was getting the old bearings out of the drum. You spend a bunch of effort to wail on a punch that is trying to push on a bearing. Felt like I was gonna ruin the tub half. Putting the new ones in also felt overly difficult but, that is how bearings go. The teardown and rebuild was easy and kind of fun.

Unplug and disconnect water lines. Move washer out. I used soapy water to make it easier to slide because it is stacked washer and dryer. Slid dryer onto large trash can saving my back. So easy. Make sure it is heavy duty . Removed lid. Removed old part by removing to screws in back. Disconnected 3 wires, disconnected one hose at a time while reattaching each one to new part. That way I was sure to get them back in the right place. Attached back to machine . Put water hoses back on and checked for leaks before but lid and dryer back in place. Ta da!! This was so easy. I am a 57 year old woman and this was pretty simple. I tried trouble shooting by using tub cleaner and everything as manual suggested but it still leaked. Watch a lot of you tube. Apparently lg has this happen with this part a lot. Thank you parts select. I’m sure this saved me a lot of money. I have had enough money bleeding from my pockets with bigger home problems. Thank you.

I actually did the repair exactly as the video showed. If I would have had the part at the time of discovering the problem it would have been about a 45 minute repair from start to finish. Worst part of the whole fix was moving the heavy washer.

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

YouTube is your friend for many such repairs. See this link for an overall description:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuvLuC8x4_s

I had to remove the top panel to determine exactly which valve was leaking. It turned out both hot and cold-water valves were defective.

After unit is unplugged and top is removed, it's a simple matter to remove/replace hose connections and electrical connections. It took me less than an hour to complete the task once parts were in hand.

Again, YouTube is your friend for such repairs.