WM2250CW (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

Hot water valve was leaking when washer was not in use and flooded floor. Advised owner to replace hit and cold water valve same time since only hot valve was bad. Hot water was easy but cold was difficult because it has the bleach and softener valve attached in one unto with three hoses and three wire connections. The opening at back of machine was small and you must have small hands to replace them. If not, then you have to remove top cover to get to it which is extensive.

The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.

took out the drain pump and replace with a new one

This was very easy to instal. The aplaiance repair co. wanted $240 my LG is six years old and would rather buy a new one if I had to spend that much, so I gave it a shot and it took me 20 min to install the part. Told my wife she owed me $ 180 for my labor.

Unplug washer!!! 1. Remove retaining ring around rubber gasket with flat head screwdriver. Just slightly pry off and it will easily come off. 2. Just peel back rubber gasket on the side that the lock is on. 3. remove 2 screws from the front off the lock assembly. 4. gently reach in and lift the little plastic clip holding the wiring harness and lift straight off. If the clip is lifted it might be a little tight just use even steady pressure to pull off. 5. Reverse these instructions to replace. Note: replacing the retaining ring on the rubber is a pain. The spring has to be in the bottom. Using a couple of flathead screwdrivers you can wrangle it back in place after awhile. There is a tool that looks like a large reverse pliers that may make it easier. Anyway thats it, pretty easy. There is a youtube video that shows all of this.

The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a socket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.

Disconnect electric and remove top cover and remove connectors and hoses then the valves

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

removed dryer which was stacked on top of dryer. opened washer top by removing screws from plastic hold down parts on rear. replaced valves with new valves you all sent me. reassembled and restacked dryer on washer

Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.

remove the front part of the machine to get to the door hinge.