WM2601HL LG Washer - Instructions

removed dryer which was stacked on top of dryer. opened washer top by removing screws from plastic hold down parts on rear. replaced valves with new valves you all sent me. reassembled and restacked dryer on washer

the best video was on you tube and showed exactly how to repair my washer. the parts arrived quickly and was a perfect match. thanks for helping me save some moola and making mama happy.

I took the back panel off the washer and located where the leak was coming from. It was obviously coming from around where the cold water hose connects. Checked washers in hoses and they were good. Noticed a small drip on the valve assembly that the hose connects too. Took off small panel where the hose connections are mounted....disconnected all 3 black water hoses that connect to it (squeeze metal clamps with pliers and slide hoses off. and numbered them with permanent marker so I wouldn't get my lines crossed later), removed the quick disconnect electrical lines.... removed part and googled the parts diagram on this site.....identified the part in the pic and ordered....it was here in less than 48 hrs with the basic shipping (which stated 3-5 days:)....reassembled the same way I took it apart. I'm prud of myself, it was pretty easy and I'm sure it saved me a lot of money!:)l

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

Replaced rotor assembly by removing the back panel off the washer. Removed center bolt to be able to take out roto assembly. Magnets made it a little resistant, but with a little wiggling came off fairly easily.

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

I unplugged the washer, and removed the top of the washer by removing the two screws securing the top to the washer. You'll find them inside the two plastic pieces on the rear of the top. Remove only the bottom two screws in each plastic piece and slide the lid to the rear a few inches then lift straight up to remove the lid. Disconnect the water hose from the rear of the inlet valve assembly then remove the two screws in the rear of the old water valve bracket that attach it to the washer. Pull the old unit inside the washer and set the new unit on top of the old. Swap over the electrical connections to the new water valve assembly, matching the locations where the connectors were originally. Then swapped over the water lines from the old unit to the new unit using common pliers to compress the hose claps. Finally, attach the new unit to the washer with the two rear screws. Replace the water hose and the top, and the unit is ready to test.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.