WM3632HW LG Washer - Instructions

Followed the video instructions provided.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Change the thermistor

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.

First we unplugged the machine. Then turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. Pulled out the machine and laid it on its side to access the themsistor located on the drum. (No, you do not have to remove the control panel at all to replace this part) The thermsistor is clearly seen with a flashlight. There were plastic ties holding the wires of the thermsistor so we used small scissors to cut the ties. Then unplugged the old thermsistor and plugged in the new thermsistor and used a regular bag twist to secure the wires. Repair complete and the machine is back to normal. Thank you Part Select.

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

Conclusion was that either the control panel or the noise filter (an electrical fuse apparatus)was bad. Disconnected the water line, turned off power, and pulled unit out from cabinets. Determined that voltage was going into the noise filter (white harness) but almost no voltage coming out (red harness). Ordered noise filter. Hardest part was removing old noise filter from dishwasher frame without removing the whole unit from cabinet and turning upside down.One screw holds the part in the frame. With power off, I used a very small ratchet with phillips screw driver. Pried unit out with screw driver on side to the panel front. It has a retaining tab there.Installation was the reverse. Instead of putting screw back the way it was originally installed, I screwed it in from the outside of the frame. Much easier and just as solid. Tested unit with power on. Hooked up water line. Works great. Note: LG dishwahers have a high repair rate and that this part has a high failure rate. This LG unit was two years old. Never had to fix my 15 year old Sears dishwasher. It still works to this day. (I gave it to my daughter.)