WM2501HVA LG Washer - Instructions

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

Opened rear compartment of washer and observed problem with drum shaft slipping inside of plastic motor assembly. The plastic teeth used to secure drum shaft were worn down. The part I needed was sent as an assembly but should have been sent separately for a much lower cost? The new part looked like it was of a sturdier design. All in all I saved hundreds of dollars repairing the washer my self. The woman I spoke to on the phone was really nice and very helpful.

The repair went well and your parts are easy to find. This is the second time I have used your services and both times have been great. Your parts are at great prices and your delivery is a lot faster that one would think.
Thank you

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

1.open back of washer with screwdriver. 4 screws total. 2. Remove assembly with 17 mm socket. 3. Install new rotor assembly with socket. 4. Replace back of washer with sscrews. 15 minutes total time.

Simply took hose off from inside machine and replaced it with new one. The tore one had a stopper on one end that wrapped to front machine; inside filter compartment. So I put stopper on the other end of new hose and wrapped it to it's holding spot in filter compartment.

found the leak, went to the website, called customer service, ordered the part... $24 later, problem solved. Great customer service and on-line support

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

My washer was leaking and the first thing I had to do was diagnose the leak. I removed the rear door cover of the washer to watch and see where the water was coming from. When I saw the drip and on and off constant stream coming down from the door area, I knew it was the boot seal. So I got online and watched the video on how to repair the boot seal. I would like to add two additional steps. After disconnecting the drain valve on the bottom, there was also an orange dual valve (part K 512) on the top of the boot along with an electric eye (I think part K 513) that needed to be removed. The dual valve was easy: just remove the clamps and pull out the valve stems. The electric eye was secured with a nylon strip lock, and fortunately I had an extra one laying around. Cut the nylon lock and push the electric eye out of the top of the boot. Once I got to the step where I was lubricating the door boot seal groove, I also lubricated the orange dual valve stem and electric eye. They were easy to pop back into place, and then I secured the electric eye with a new nylon strip lock and the valve with the clamps. This entire repair took me about 90 minutes, and it was not that hard to do. The only difficulty I had was trying to pop the control panel off, and also trying to get the spring clamps off. I recommend you purchase a spring expansion tool like that shown in the video.

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.