W3S1CVK2EVS (ABLEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Had to replace front drum support rollers. Removed screws underneath top in back that held bracket that keeps top in place. Slid top towards rear and lifted up. Removed 4 screws that hold plastic front panel in place (inside..2 on each corner) Unplugged front panel electric plugs to remove panel. Opened door..removed 2 screws at bottom of door opening. Removed screws on top of front panel. Unplugged door switch plug. Removed front panel. Removed right front roller with 9/16th wrench for nut. Adjustable for back of stud. Lifted up on drum to get roller out. Reversed to install. Left roller a bit harder to get to stud. Removed and installed same as right side. Did not attempt to replace rear rollers. Have them if needed but very much more involved to replace.

I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal fuse was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.

Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piece of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of the back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.

Unplugged dryer, pled forward to get access to back of dryer. Removed screws, enabling top, front control clip. door panel to be taken off. Lift out drum, replace heater assembly. drum belt, thermistor. Cleaned entire interior and reassembled, working good as new. All parts fit and were a exact match.

We bought 2 roller wheels to replace the ones up front that turn the drum. We watched a video prior to ordering the parts, then followed along with it as we did the repair. It was really easy to complete, with the hardest part being getting some of the screws to loosen at first. Now it purrs like a kitten. We are so happy to have silences the racket. One wheel was completely worn away, with shreds of rubber sitting inside the cabinet.

Watched the video a couple of times. After that it was a breeze.

I followed a Repair Clinic Urube video except the video had a model with the controls in front and my dryer has the controls on a back panel. The difference was in how to get the top of the dryer off after removing all the screws. The video
said to push back on the top panel which did not work because of the back controls. Instead I had to push up on the front to release it and then push back. The rollers were also in a slightly different place but were easily found and replaced. The dryer is now back to normal.

Replaced idle pulley wheel, worn drum belt and all 4 rollers (1 frozen) due to dryer age. Site video re general disassembly/re-assembly easily adapted to this model and very helpful with exception of replacement of drum rollers. New rollers received (AGM75510755) were pre-mounted on included shafts. This required removal of existing roller shafts to replace with new shaft/roller units. Site video shows placing a new roller on existing shafts after removing a plastic retaining clip. New roller/shaft assembly is a better option and fortunately I did not order extra retainer clips! Rear drum roller shafts have small carved out space to fit a box end wrench to remove shaft nut. Watch out for sharp edges on internal steel parts!

1. Had to find out what was causing the problem by eliminating each part one by one using a multimeter. I got a video link from parts select on how to do this.

2. Then got another video link sent to me by parts select on how to take my dryer a part and replace the part.

3. Followed it step by step and it worked really well.

4. The process was great except shipping was excessively high for such a small part.

Following the reference video, step by step and taking progress photos along the way, organizing screws and hardware as they were removed.

The discrepancy I found was the new rollers that I received were complete with the shaft. The video with the older rollers instruct removing the rollers from the shaft.

To use the new rollers with the new shaft, requires removing an additional panel at both the front 2 and also the full back panel for the rear 2, to get a wrench on both ends of the shaft, and then attach the new roller bearing shaft assembly and re-install the panel.

Other than that, it went very smoothly and the result was a quiet rotating drum. No more thumping!

My dryer actually required 2 moisture sensors, but had only ordered one pack, which only came with 1 sensor. For whatever reason, I thought the pack would have had the 2 pieces.

Another reviewer made note to wear work gloves as some of the hardwares metal edges are quite sharp. Following that advice I completed the repair in 3 hours without a scratch. Thanks for the detailed video Partselect team and good luck to all attempting repairs.

Completly disassembled dryer removed 2 rear rollers installed 2 new rollers. Reassemble dryer in including new drum belt. Dryer is nice and quiet again running fantastic, thank you for your support

Able to complete install but the lint housing does not allow the lint screen to slide down completely due to the housing lacking the appropriate cut outs/notches. The slit becomes too narrow for the lint screen so it protrudes from the sides. The delivered product does not match the image on the item description, which shows the proper cut outs/notches that should fully accommodate the lint screen.
I'm having a similar experience with this reviewer:

John S - February 14, 2022
Verified Purchase
Lint screen housing
The housing will not allow the lint screen to set completely down because the housing lacks the proper cut outs causing the lint screen to set 1-1.5 inches too high. I was able to cut out the required notches in the plastic so that the lint screen would fit. The picture shows the proper notches but the delivered product didn’t have the notches and does not match the picture.

Will return the item and keep searching for the correct lint housing.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.