W3S1CVK2EVS (ABLEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.

Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.

One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.

Pull off the top and front of the dryer and reached in and replaced the part it was easy. Had to clean all the dryer out real good with from the lint

Watched a You Tube video

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

I ordered the lint filter screen and when it arrived it looked exactly like the old one. It should have been nothing more than remove the old one and slide the new one in place.

Unfortunately, the new screen was about 1/2" wider than the old one and would not fit into the guide. After consulting by phone with your parts expert, we confirmed the model number and serial numbers, and eventually concluded that a design change must have been made by the manufacturer. We thought the only solution would be to also purchase the corresponding filter guide. So I ordered the guide. When it arrived, I installed it - a very difficult installation requiring putting my head and one shoulder into the dryer in order to get the screws out. (A long arm with two elbows would be nice.) After I got the old guide out, I discovered that it was exactly like the new one - 1/2" too narrow for the new filter screen. I reinstalled the old guide and returned both parts.

The dryer filter screen still has a hole in it and I am now waiting for my refund. I have no idea how to solve the problem.

The filter screen part number is 24053607, order number 18265310.

The guide part number is 24145665, order number 18348658.

Model number: DLE3170W

Serial number: 603KWMK6T539

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

This was all pretty straightforward with the helpful video hosted on this site. The only issues I ran into was I had a seized screw that stripped and I had to drill it out and replace it. Also, I had to disassemble the front and rear a little bit further than what is shown in order to install the new roller axles. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not have to worry about the triangular retainers, because the replacement rollers/axles use an improved metal retaining pin. Overall, I'm very happy and the dryer is nearly silent now. It was a bit of a challenge but I took my time and gave myself breaks throughout the morning rather than banging my head against the wall.

Part showed up in 2 days and repair took 2 min. Very easy. Thank you!!

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Removed the top, the control panel and the door. The heater assembly came out thru the front, without having to remove the drum. Easy replacement