W3S1CVK2ENS (ABLEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I did as I was told (by my wife). Bought the machine from Home Depot - no side vent kit - had them complete the installation today when the kit came.

Opened front of dryer - removed drum - replace all 4 rollers (2 had bad shafts) - replace drum with new belt - reassembled

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.

I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '

You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.

Not knowing whether it was the pulley, tensioner, or drum roller I had previously pulled the dryer apart and noticed one roller shaft was rusty for some reason. When the part came in (which was quite fast)I disassembled the dryer to the point that I could remove the left rear drum roller. Replaced the roller and reassembled the dryer (to my surprise without any extra screws or parts left). Fairly easy job, just time consuming.

I first took the top off, then the front control panel, unplugged the wires from panel (very easy), took the front panel off, the rum comes out very easy, be sure to look at the way the belt goes back on the pulley. I didn't and it took me a while to figure it out. All goes back together very easy.

removed the top of the dryer first by removing screws in the back and pulling the top back and up. Removed the control panel, followed by the door. The front panel and top brace were then removed. The belt was disengaged by pulling the tensioner idler and working the belt off the motor pulley. The drum was lifted out and set aside with the other parts. Holding the motor shaft with vice-grip pliers, and turning the nut on the blower wheel (left-hand thread!)removed the blower wheel. The motor is held by snap-on retainers and easily removed and swapped. Installation is reverse of disassembly. While in there, cleaned out the lint gathered everywhere. Also constructed a heat shield out of aluminum flashing and foil tape to cover the foil and foam tape between the burner assembly and sheet metal side. The foam had actually burned at some point in the past and the flashing should act as a better heat shield. A relatively easy repair, but should not have been necessary in a 7 year old dryer.

Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the back bracket holding the top on. Then the top will slide back and lift off. Next I removed the screws holding the control panel. Removed the door. Removed all the screws holding the front cover on. Removed the lent shoot. Manually rotated the tumbler. Checked both rollers in the front. Found one with the flat spot in it. Removed and replaced it.

First I just replaced the ignitor on a hunch, (disassembly was easy once I saw the video) I also examined the high limit thermostadt and found it was tripped, so I reset the button. the dryer fired up, but soon the thermo tripped again. I found that I could reach it with my arm placed in the inspection port,( about a 4 inch diameter pop out) make sure you unplug first, find the button near the ignitor, and pop it in. the high limit thermo was only holding a few seconds, so I decided to replace it, and did a "shot-gun" approach, replacing all thermos and thermisters at once, only about 35 bucks delivered...BTW, PartSelect shipped them to me at the speed of light.....one day ! Ireplaced all thermos and did and extra scrulpoulous cleaning of the vent. NOTE: it is completely possible that ahe only problem was a reduced vent capacity cmbined with summer heat leading to tripping the high limit thermo....however the thermo was tripping waaaay too easil in my opinion. Anyway, I celebrated doing 10 loads of piled up laundry, and basking in the glory of my wife's admiration for saving a $1000. appliance replacement. "how did you know how to do this honey?" "yoir so smart" (i did'nt tell her about the PartSelect video)

This was a repair from a repair. It started as a conversion to LPG, in the process the igniter broke. The parts arrived quickly and we were able to get it back together and the wife is happy. Thanks.

Seemed to be shutting off on the safety thermostat so I replaced them all. Works.

Removed Top, then front and drum. Parts easy to access once drum is out. Recommend reading up on drum replacement. Would appear that all repairs will require taking it out.

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.