WD12412BD (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
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PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.

Tilt the unit back. Remove screws that hold the clean out. Disconnect the electric plugs and hoses. Remove pumps and housing. Change out pumps. Put back together reverse order

Found great Youtube video, followed step by step. Only difficult part was getting the tub gasket clamp back on. But all in all pretty easy. If tub won't drain and weird noise coming from pump do not hesitate to do it yourself and save some coin!

disasemble the whole mashine... split outer tank...pound out old bearings... press in new... reassemble.... look for leaks... repair man estament..$900...cost me less than 100.. took 4 hours

If you are not mechanically inclined and don't have any experience replacing bearings I wouldn't even attempt this repair. I'm a mechanic/welder/fabricator so it wasn't to bad for me. I did need to us a bearing puller to get the damaged bearing off the shaft. The whole job took me about 3 1/2 hours. About $80 in parts. Appliance repair guy quoted me $600 to fix it.

complet disassembly , took almost everything out of the interior . removed the drum holding the agitator and disassembled it . then removed the seal and bearing and replaced with new. also removed seal between drums and replaced it . put it all back and run more quite than when it was new. PS- no leeks!

Took apart the washer and removed bearings and shaft on spider. My advice would be to order the spider and shaft (one piece) hen ordering the bearings, seal, and tub gasket. If the bearings are gone, it is likely the shaft is gone too as mine was.

took lid off of washer (slides back, not pry) and had to dismantle from springs, rubber around door and pistons on bottom. also had to disconnect from electrical plugs and took out dispenser drawer and all hoses. also have to take off magnetic piece devices from off back of drum. mark everything before dismantling with a black permanent marker so you will know what went where when putting back together and what pieces were facing up,top, etc. once get everything freed up, entire tub pulls up out of the washer. get old shot bearings out of drum, but be careful not to beat on it too much so that you don't damage the shaft or "oblong" the tub, etc. ordered parts that arrived in about 2 days. to put new bearings back in, get large washers -one for front and one for back -same size as the bearings so you will have equal pressure coming from front and back, put a long bolt thru the holes in the bearings with one of the large washers on each end. put a nut on the end of the bolt and begin to tighten. this will pull the bearings together back into their positions without ruining them and gives you equal pressure all around. be careful when you get them tight, they will fit snugly back into place. put it all back together carefully, just like you took it apart. if you labeled everything, you should have no problem putting the puzzle back together. before putting the tub pieces back together, i ran a bead of silicone caulk to prevent leaks. started it back up and runs great! fixed it for total of $72 (including shipping charges), which is a lot cheaper than buying a new washing machine. it is tedious and somewhat challenging, but if you are in any way mechanical, you shouldn't have any problems.

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!

greate very easy and the parts fit awsome the shiping was fast and easy very satified

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

1. Remove Power from washing machine. Using an ajustable wrench,remove both the cold water and hot water hoses/lines from back of washing machine. 2. Unscrew the back plate, using the screwdriver (Phillips) and store back plate and screws for re-installation. 3. Using a small screwdriver (Phillips), remove the retaining plate fom the cold and hot water inlet valves and store plate and screws for re-installation. 4. Using the pliers, press the retaining clamp and slide it through the hose; remove the hot water valve assembly; drain water from the hose (be careful: hot water can scald and burn). Mark the electrical connection and the hot water hose. 5. Using the pliers again, press the retaining clamps and slide them through the hoses/lines;remove the cold water valve assembly and the cold water hoses/lines; drain water from hoses/lines. Mark the electrical connections and the cold water hoses/lines. 6. Remove new inlet valves from boxes and re-install in accordance with marking on hoses/lines and electrical connections. Using the pliers, move clamps over all the hoses/lines to tighten ends on inlet valves. 7. Replace retaining brackets on cold and hot water inlet valves and re-insert screws. 8. Replace the back plate and screws. 9. Power the washing machine by reconnecting the power cord into the electrical outlet. 10. Test the repairs by placing the washing machine in the "Rinse and Spin" cycle and check for leaks. If no leaks are detected, repair is complete.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Disconnected power. Removed washer top, upper front control panel, and front panel. Removed hoses from washer drum housing. Removed cabling and support springs and stabilizers. Removed drum housing from cabinet. Removed bolts that secure the two halves of housing. Removed rotor from drum shaft. Removed stator from housing. Supported drum housing and with hammer and punch, removed drum shaft from bearings. Replaced bearings and seal and reassembled in reverse order.