F1255FD5 (ASSEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !

Just like it shows on You tube but one of the shocks did not come with the plastic pegs so i used the old one. I need to order the springs now and replace them.

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly!
I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.

Removed the front and rear covers ,the control panel , removed the shock absorber pins and shocks installed new shocks and reassembled

It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time.
However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one.
For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
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