F1201FD (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!

After watching the video for installation of the bellow, I followed the suggested repair method and was able to repair my washer.

just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here

replaced switch as shown in the video...Worked great

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

Followed instructions on YouTube link. Replaced the shock absorber and washer is working really well.

It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time.
However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one.
For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.

Removed the front and rear covers ,the control panel , removed the shock absorber pins and shocks installed new shocks and reassembled

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

All I did was first of all and since it is so heavy I put 2 furniture sliders under the 2 front feat because I had to pull it out from where it was onto the carpet and the back feat I just sprayed some wd40 so the would slide on the tile floor. Then I took the top off by removing 2 bottom screws and pulled the lid back and up and there was the cold valve. Next I pulled the electric tabs off. Don’t worry they go on the same way they were on. Do not at this time remove the screws on the valve until you pull each off one at a time and place one at a time back on the new valve. Then remove the screws and the old valve and put the screws back on for new valve and you are done. Replace cold water hose turn on water check if no leaks replace lid, you are as if new once again. Good luck. Cost for all that is around $50

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done