40318 (APBESEC) LG Washer - Instructions

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
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Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly!
I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.

I looked at the video that is on the partselect.com website. The person that I talked to from the website was very knowledgeable about the problem with my washer and he gave me the part number to type in the search box of the website. When I typed the part number in the search box the part showed up and the installation video showed up also. The video is an excellent video. It shows exactly how to do it. I also downloaded the operator manual from the website to look up what the error code meant.

Watch the videos on u-tube. I used the video where they did not take the top and front of the machine off. Make sure you get the spring pliers because they really do help

I followed the video and it was quite simple. There was an extra sheet metal screw at the bottom of the front panel which kept it from coming free of the three tabs. On the two pump wite connectors I made a mental note that the black wires were on top. The repair also fixed the lack of water flow through the degeterent dispenser. I was afraid of putting the tub seal back in place as a pro struggled with it when it was new and under warranty. It really was no problem at all. Take some phone pics along the way boosted my confidence.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Followed the video instructions provided.

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

removed two screws from back of front load washer slid the top back two inches and pulled up removing the top.Turned the water off at the shut off . Used the pliers to remove the clamps on the hose to replace. Put the new hose on with new clamps. Un screwed the two screws holding the inlet valve and removed the hose and clamp. Put the new part in and put the hose and clamp back on then put the two screws back that hold the inlet valve.Total time to unpack the parts and install 7 minutes. All I did was google it on youtube and order the parts from this site which only took 2 days and tah dah .

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

took out the drain pump and replace with a new one

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.