29472 LG Washer - Instructions

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

Tried to remove adjitator but it was stuck. Could not find any professional method of pulling it. There must be some type of puller,

Since the old pulsator had actually come off during a wash cycle, I was able to place the new one on easily. Tightened the screw with a socket. Then placed the new cap on. Before placing the new pulsator on, I was able to clean all the mold and hard deposits off the mechanism under the pulsator. The hard deposits were also scrapped from the pulsator holding (where the screw goes) which may have caused the problem to begin with.

Tried everything and could not get it out I just use mesh bags for washing at this time, but LG washing machine is the worst I have ever had

turn off the water, unplug washer from power. remove two screws holding rear top plate. Here's the hard part. Pry the rear top plate from the top of the washer. It has multiple snap in guides across the front edge and they are very tight. Be careful and apply steady pressure straight up and they will eventually come free.
I marked each of the electrical inputs going to the old valve before removing. Remove the wiring harness. Again be careful and ease them off. the connectors
come apart easily. Remove the hose clamps with pliers and slip off the hoses. They are long enough that I trimmed off the soft ends of the old hoses and still had plenty of hose to reconnect. Remove the filler hoses. Remove the screws holding the valve to the machine. Re install the new valve in reverse order. Goes back in very easily.
Make sure to secure all the hoses. Run a wash cycle with an empty tub to make sure everything is working properly and nothing is leaking. Snap the rear top plate back into position and secure with the two screws Should take less than a couple of hours to do this job. Again the hardest part is getting the rear top plate off.

unplugged machine, turned off water valves. Moved machine away from the wall. Disconnected supply lines. Removed cover housing water valve assembly.
Took a picture with phone. Disconnected water and electrical wires. Removed water valve assembly . Installed new assembly ,cover and reconnected supply lines, plugged power cord in, turned on water supply valves. Done.

The problem ended up being the pump motor which discharges water from the washer. I figured out this was the problem after trying several things. I determined the motor was fine when it was empty. With the unit turned off, if you can rotate the tube with a quick spin and it lights up, probably this is OK. Then I tried to run it again and it went about 1/2 way through the cycle and stopped and started humming again. So I started emptying out the water, which I noticed was about 5 gallons which is way too much. so once empty, I took the pump off by turning unit on side. There are two hoses with hose clamps, and a few screws. Be careful to mark which wire plugs onto which side of the pump. One is brown and one is black. If you take the pump housing off, with the 3 screws, you should be able to pull the motor apart. Mine had water and scum from the wash in it, which was a dead give away that it was the problem.