41022 LG Washer - Instructions

I followed the steps outlined on (several) web sites detailing the replacement process. Just Google " LG front load washer won't drain". A couple of small quirks cropped up that required some adaptations such as: I had to purchase an automotive hose clamp to reinstall the main tub drain hose to the pump manifold. I couldn't get the oem clamp back on. It kept slipping out to the jaws of my pliers and I don't own a pair of those clamp pliers that make the job easy. Also, the hex head/phillips screws used to attach the front panel to the frame were very tightly installed AND they had their heads rounded off! I didn't have the hand strength to make the phillips screwdriver loosen them so I used a pair of vise grips to carefully start the process and used the phillips to finish. Finally, the wire loop used to retain the big gasket that seals the front had door is tricky to reinstall. It took two people to get it right. All in all , the videos make the job pretty routine.

PartSelect's instruction video on replacing this drain pump makes this repair doable even for a first timer like me. In addition to following the video instructions, I found that using plastic bicycle tire levers to reinstall the band clamp around the bellows was easier than using a screwdriver and less likely to scratch or damage the area. Beginners might want to take photos when disassembling the washer for reference if needed during reassembly. My washer's innards weren't exactly like the one in the instruction video, and the photos gave me a way to double check as I put it back together.

Replaced drain pump following easy to follow video. Also replaced circulation pump at same time, as it is connected to common sump housing and only added a few more minutes to repairs.

Disconnected power supply and water supply hoses. Laid machine on its back because this is a top load machine. Removed one bolt to take off stator then 6 bolts to remove rotor. Put it on side without taking off wire assembly. Snapped off rotor position sensor and installed new one. Put all back together and connected power supply and new stainless braided hoses. WORKS PERFECT. Thanks !

I followed the instructions of your instant repairman. A Phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed. Thank you .

Disconnect elec., hot and cold water supply and drain hose. Lay washer on it's back. Removed nut from center housing. Removed screws from stater. Disconnected wires with flat screw driver at sensor and stater. Installes new sensor. Put everything back together. Washer works great. No LE code.

Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside.
Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses).
Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve.
To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

Watched instructional video. Made it easy

I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

Took front of machine off to access 2 shocks, put back together then removed panel in back to access third shock, watched YouTube video first so things went smooth

Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL!
The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part!
I would definitely order from this company again!

Disconnect washer - pull out and turn on it's right side. Remove bottom plate (2 screws). Water intake valve is attached to water line. Disconnect water line. On the other end of the pump is a rubber hose. Disconnect hose by using a pair of pliers to open pipe clamp. Disconnect the electric line by pulling the pronged plug out of the pump. The part is composed of the pump and a metal mounting plate. They are connected by 4 screws. Remove the screws and pull out the back half of the pump. The front of the pump is attached to the washer frame by 2 screws. When removed you will notice an o-ring that forms the seal between the two halves. Remember this when installing the new pump. You will have to take the new pump apart because the whole part will not fit through the frame opening, thus the need to make sure the o-ring is properly seated. You can either install the mounting plate to the frame then attach the pump half or with half of the part in front of the frame and the other half behind the frame connect the two, then attach it to the frame. Reconnect incoming water line using teflon tape and a crescent wrench. Reconnect out-flow line with the pipe clamp and attach the power line. Since you have to take the new pump apart make sure the o-ring is properly seated as it will have a tendency to fall out. Reassemble the rest.