F1216FDS LG Washer - Instructions

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.

It went great. First of all, thank you Part Select for the video on how to do this myself. My home warranty company was giving me a hard time. Blah, blah, blah. A mechanic friend of mine referred me to this site. Within minutes I found the part I need and a GREAT!!!! price. Ordered it, got it super fast, fixed it my self and my second hand washer is no longer peeing all over the floor. Very very happy. I will definitely be a repeat customer, hopefully not anytime soon.
Thank you again for an amazing experience.

To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.

After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.

Replaced cold water inlet. Removed 4 water lines and 5 wires put new part in and reinstalled lines and wires

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.