KHWV01RSS0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Placed baffle in drum over slots pushed down on it and slid it back to lock it in place. You will hear it click.

Easy peezy!! Next day delivery, as promised for parts that could not be found anywhere else. I placed the baffles in the washer and clicked them in using both hands one by one. I'm petite and weigh about 110 lbs. The total installation time was less than 2 mins. I was given a $200 quote just for installation but, spent less than $100 and installed myself. Thank you!! I will not wait so long and shop around next time. I'm going straight to partsect.com to save time and money. Although I have to buy new clothes now since my washer put holes in all my clothes. But, the problem is finally solved and I am so grateful.

It was a little difficult to put the new Bellow in place on the tub, due to the fact you have to basically push the outside of the Bellow all the way into the tub so you can install the tub clamp. The other difficult part of the task was tightening up the clamp it's self. There really isn't a lot of room to move your hand around in the space you are given to work. But after a few hand cramps and a few things said, that are not needing repeated, I was able to get the clamp tight. Once you have the clamp on the tub, it's basically pretty simple to slide everything else into place. The wire/spring clamp that is used to attach the Bellow to the front of the washer is fairly simple to put into place with a little patience. All in all it was a cheep and easy repair for a due-it-your self repair.

Read the instructions provided by PartSelect.....and with a bit of patience I installed all four bolts so the washer's inside agitator was not damaged in shipping. I highly recommend that anyone who is moving/storing or shipping their washer that you find the correct shipping bolts according to your model and make and install them prior to moving your appliance.

Disconnected power. Turned of the water supply. Removed/disconnected the water lines from the washer. Removed the top by removing three screws. Disconnected the wires/connectors from the valve assembly. Disconnected the water line from the valve assembly to the dispenser assembly. Removed the screw holding the valve assembly on. Installed the valve assembly and reversed the above procedure.

I watched video first and it help me a lot to do the repair myself of my washer machine and i save about $ 1,500 dollar. Thanks

repair was a cake-walk with the video there to help.Thanx

Removed top of washer and replaced flow meter.

Too easy. It took longer to pull the washer away from the wall and disconnect it (hoses, etc.) than to R&R the water inlet valve.

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

Of course the machine was not plugged in & water valves where off. I took water hoses off. Then i took 3 screws off the back of lid & slid lid back & lifted it off. I then unplugged two wires going to valve. I then took water hose going to valve off. Last there is one bolt holding valve to machine & in the mechanic industry we call this bolt a star head, so it was a good thing I had this tool. So if you do this repair you will have to get this tool. This job is easy to do & Part Select was 100% on my order & shipping! I will order again when something brakes again !!! Thank's

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.