KHWV01RSS0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Gregory from Geneva, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182233
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Baffle broke and became disconnected from drum
slid new baffle into place. No directions with new part, fortunately it was easy to figure out how baffle locked into place.
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- Customer:
- Salvador from Indio, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP8182233
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
baffle had come off of inside drum
baffle just clicked into place by aligining tabs on baffle with openings on drum. very easy.
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- Customer:
- LAVERNE from NIANTIC, CT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10110225
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Displayed F and H alternately
Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem
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- Customer:
- David from Eleva, WI
- Parts Used:
- 8182793
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
replace motor
Everything went great from order to done. Very happy
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from Boothwyn, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10110225, WP8182862, WP489503
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
error F28 in mid cycle
check error code : no water flow
pulled hoses [hot& cold] to clean screen in line.
pulled flow meter out from under top of hood to clean and check free wheel movement inside.
still error code F28 in mid wash cycle. called in and talk with service: he explained that hot& cold water valve was opening to slow or not enough for flow meter to read full presure. I replace water valve and flow meter. washer is doing fine. [I was getting readly to go in futher down the line and get new controler. talking to service stop me from spending a lot of money. THANK YOU
pulled hoses [hot& cold] to clean screen in line.
pulled flow meter out from under top of hood to clean and check free wheel movement inside.
still error code F28 in mid wash cycle. called in and talk with service: he explained that hot& cold water valve was opening to slow or not enough for flow meter to read full presure. I replace water valve and flow meter. washer is doing fine. [I was getting readly to go in futher down the line and get new controler. talking to service stop me from spending a lot of money. THANK YOU
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- Customer:
- RICHARD from Portland, OR
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Old bellow pulled loose and torn
Was able to remove old bellow without dis-assembly. Replacement required removing the front of the machine for access. Once the front was off, the bellow was simple to replace. Biggest difficulty is getting the top mark on the bellow lined up. It has a tendency to slip out of position while you are working the back of the bellow over the retaining lip and it is not possible to rotate the bellow after it is installed. Fortunately, the tube from the detergent tray can be rotated slightly to allow for a small amount of error. Replacing the front retaining wire and spring required three hands at one point, but was otherwise not a problem. Fortunately removal and replacement of the front of the machine is pretty straight forward. I needed to disconnect wires to set the front out of the way, but it is impossible to plug them back in incorrectly.
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- Customer:
- Carl from Patterson, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP8182233
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
baffle in tub fasteners broke, baffle disconnected from tub
This part slides in and snaps in place, a 15 second job.
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- Customer:
- MIKE from BENBROOK, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8182233
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Baffle in washer tub broke off
Snaped new one in place and done.
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- Customer:
- Ramon from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Front seal leaked
It was so easy my wife replaced the part.
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- Customer:
- Valerie from Huxley, IA
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Leaked water
simple repair. After reading other reviews my husband was confident he too could do the repair. He was right, we were so very glad not to have had to call for service.
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Torn bellow lip
Replace bellow with help from Youtube video.
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- Customer:
- Wanda from PIKEVILLE, KY
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Tub was filling with water while washer was not in use
Shut off water supply, unplug washer. Remove screws on fir the top of washer, remove supply lines for water, lift top of washer off, unclip wires going into outlet value, reclip wires into new part, put parts back into place, secure lid and hoses, turned water supple back on plug in washer and put washer back into place, there you go. Oh, one more thing, make sure you check for leaks prior to hut washer back into place. Easy as pie
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- Customer:
- GARY from CLARKSVILLE, IN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10110225
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F-20 Error Code
Take off top of washer and the flowmeter is in the back lefthand corner on the top of the washer. Replaced the water level switch on the top righthand of the machine also. Got about 150. 00 Total invested w/service call from local tech. F-20 has not came back yet. I hoped it fixed it washer is only 3 yrs. Old. -Gd
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- Customer:
- Robert from GLENVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bellow was torn and water was leaking onto the floor
(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
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- Customer:
- Robert from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Water leaking into drum when machine shut off
Shut off water. Unplug electric. Remove top panel. Unhook hoses. Unhook tubing unplug solenoid. Use torx to remove part. Reverse steps to install new part. Replace top panel. Hook up water & electric.
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