11029802891 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I pulled the hose off and notice their was a part # and I went online and type the part # and showed the part and cost. I order it and receive it within 3days. when the part arrive I replace the hose in minutes. If I can do so can you its that easy.

Direct drive, no belt. Motor sounds like it's spinning but the agitator is not. Bought the coupling (that goes between the motor and the transmission) and replaced it in less than 15 minutes. Two screws and two clips to open the cover. Two clips to move the water pump out of the way. Two screws and two clips to take out the motor. Replace the coupling and reverse the steps.

The machine was not designed for quick repairs. The top, front and sides of the machine are all one piece. I had to remove the screws on the lower back access panel. Then remove the water lines, ground screw and outlet hose. I then had to remove the two screws holding the control panel in place. I then bumped the control panel loose. I could then move the back access panel, which is the entire back of the machine, upward to remove it from the clips, located under the control panel. The back access panel will then move away from the machine about 3-4 inches. From the back of the machine, I then had my son tilt the top and sides of the machine forward, leaving enough space for me to reach through the gap and remove the ground screw from the switch. I could then remove the entire switch by pulling it loose from the clips under the top housing and unplugged it from the connection. I then could attach the new ground wire and holding the new switch in place, I had my son secure the switch to the washer. I then had to clip the new switch along the inside of the housing and plug it in to the connection. We then had to realign the sides of the washer with the base, as we lowered it back into place. Holding them in place, we could then reattach the back access panel, loosely, by replacing the two screws on the lower back panel.. Then, aligning the clips that are located under the control panel, we attached the top of the access panel and tightened the screws at the bottom to secure the entire access panel in place. At this point, we could reattach the control panel, water lines, ground wire and outlet hose. It would have saved about two hours of time if the top of the washer was hinged and could have been tilted back to expose the lid switch and tub. Removing the water lines and the outlet hose also allows water to spill, as the tub drains. PartSelect was extremely quick in getting the switch to me. I ordered it on Friday and it arrived on Saturday morning. With five people in our household, clothes washing is a daily chore. We didn't miss a beat. Now, if the engineers at KitchenAid could use a little common sense in designing their products it would make repairs quicker and with less cleanup.

took off the soap dispenser, removed the agitator using a 7/16" socket with an extension. replaced the old top agitator dogs and retaining ring with new ones, re-installed top agitator on bottom, thenput whole assembly back shaft, dropped in bold and tightened. whole experience was fast and simple. the parts came fast and where a perfect fit.

Went on line and ordered the piece I need. I got my socket set out, held the center piece in place then with the socket unscrewed the bolt. Popped the plastic washer off put the agitator clips in, put the plastic washer on and bolted it back together and was done. Easy as 1, 2, and 3.

Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.

Remove softener dispencer, use flat tip screw driver to remove agitator cap, there is a slot, insert flat tip screw driver and pry up, once removed you will see the damaged dogs or cogs, use 3/8 drive ratchet with 10 or 12 inch extention and if memory serves me correct a 9/16 socket, loosen bolt and remove top agitator, there is a thrust washer between bottom and top agitator, it comes in the kit, use a little grease preferrably water resistant grease on top of washer, replace top agitator then the plastic device that the cog are inserted into and tighten bolt, put agitator cover back on with a gentle slap of the palm and reinstall softener dispencer, you are done and cloths will agitate properly again, fairly easy job and washer agitator works like new, great kit, would reccomend.

Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

will not go over step by step here as there are already a multitude of stories on site with exact situation as mine who have already done so.. What I will say is that PartSelect is easily the absolutely best site on the net for a complete problem diagnosis to finished repair experience. Just input your model # and describe the problem and you get instant diagnosis probabilities along with access to a long list of customer Q & A and reviews, along with step by step videos on diagnosing, dis- assembling, and re-assembling along with links to all parts needed and also some secondary tips along the way. The prices are fabulous (example: I got a clutch assembly kit with several parts and 2 additional parts as a just in case for $55 shpg incl, while my local appliance parts place wanted $59 plus tax for just the main part in my assembly kit with a no return policy and no part guarantee, plus it was only 1 day more to have PartSelect pkg arrive than I would have gotten part from local store). This site is FABULOUS !!!

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Disconnect power & water then drain hoses.
We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line.
Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide.
Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on.
It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat.
Go wash your clothes!

This was the perfect replacement part for my lid switch that went bad. The replacement was a little difficult; only because you have to disassble the control panel to disconnect the lid switch pig tail connector. Also, the grounding screw is screwed in a position where you can not get to the screw, so the best method is to cut the wire and connect it to the new grounding wire on the replacement lid switch and use a lot of electrical tape and I even covered the electrical tape in silicone to water proof it just in case.

I followed installation instructions given by other users on here and it went perfect. Saved myself the expense of buying a whole new washing machine just because of a stupid plastic cheaply made lid switch.

As far as this website/company, however, I am very happy with the easy of finding the correct part, the availability of the part and the very fast shipping I received. And of course, the best benefit is the cost of part versus the cost of a whole new machine (which I am sure Whirlpool had in mind). So, congrats to PartSelect.com. Amazing customer service and that system they use to find the parts you need is very good indeed.

Thanks PartsSelect.com and thanks to the user users who posted the instructions to replacing this part.

Used screw driver to pop top off to access the bolt on spinning unit.Used socket wrench and took bolt off of bottom of spinniner. Replace agitater with new parts and reassembled. Now it works like new.

Took ten minutes to pop upper assembly off and replace dogs. Note long ratchet or nut diver advisable 5/8.

I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.