79641373211 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

After finding you on google it was easy to repair. It saved me $95.00 service charge. Your direction made it very easy.

First, slide top cover back, then lift of washer. Remember to turn off water supply and disconnect cold water hose before working on valve. Also, unplug washer from wall socket. Disconnect three small electric plugs from valve, noting the postion on valve,then disconnect the water hoses from valve, noting postition of each hose. Remove two small screws holding valve to washer,remove and replace valve.reistall valve, reconnect hoses and electric connectors. Reconnect water supply, turn on water supply, check for leak, reconnect power cord to wall socket. Run washer through normal wash cycle, observing water valve for leaks, normal operation, if no problems, then reinstall top on washer

Extremely easy--remove two screws in the back of washer connect elec. connections one at a time connect cold water lines one at a time and replace the two screws ion the back and you are done. Took longer to pull washer out from wall and push back than it did to replace part. Saved me $75.

The difficult part was finding the leak since it was very small and the washer was completely wet around the frame at the bottom. After completely drying everything off and waiting an hour-nothing.I had assumed the leak was in the bottom area around the hoses when actually the leak was the cold water valve[top rear] seeping,then dripping on the drum and dripping onto the frame 8 inches away.I ordered the valve about 10:30am online, the next day at 1pm it arrived. Very easy to install in 15 minutes.

I unplugged the washer, and removed the top of the washer by removing the two screws securing the top to the washer. You'll find them inside the two plastic pieces on the rear of the top. Remove only the bottom two screws in each plastic piece and slide the lid to the rear a few inches then lift straight up to remove the lid. Disconnect the water hose from the rear of the inlet valve assembly then remove the two screws in the rear of the old water valve bracket that attach it to the washer. Pull the old unit inside the washer and set the new unit on top of the old. Swap over the electrical connections to the new water valve assembly, matching the locations where the connectors were originally. Then swapped over the water lines from the old unit to the new unit using common pliers to compress the hose claps. Finally, attach the new unit to the washer with the two rear screws. Replace the water hose and the top, and the unit is ready to test.

Our washer and dryer was stacked, and had to remove the dryer to access top of washer. This took 2 people and was not difficult due to the 168 lb weight of the dryer. Turned of water, pulled washer away from wall and disconnected the supply hoses. Removed the 2 screws holding the top, slipped it back and removed. Removed the 2 screws holding the inlet valve assembly, unplugged the wiring harness from the 3 solenoids, disconnected the 3 hoses from the hose bibs on the valves. Mounted new valve assembly, connected hoses making sure that clamps did not touch any other hoses, reconnected wiring harness, turned on water to check for any leaks, put top back on and tried washer out. Changing the valve assembly took a total of 15 minutes. Really simple. The You tube video very helpful in determining how to do the job.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

I removed the top off the washer, unplugged from the electrical, removed the three hoses and wiring plugs, removed the two screws holding the valve assembly in place, and replaced the part with the new. It was a very simple swap, and I even found a video on YouTube on how to replace it.

disasemble the whole mashine... split outer tank...pound out old bearings... press in new... reassemble.... look for leaks... repair man estament..$900...cost me less than 100.. took 4 hours

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

took lid off of washer (slides back, not pry) and had to dismantle from springs, rubber around door and pistons on bottom. also had to disconnect from electrical plugs and took out dispenser drawer and all hoses. also have to take off magnetic piece devices from off back of drum. mark everything before dismantling with a black permanent marker so you will know what went where when putting back together and what pieces were facing up,top, etc. once get everything freed up, entire tub pulls up out of the washer. get old shot bearings out of drum, but be careful not to beat on it too much so that you don't damage the shaft or "oblong" the tub, etc. ordered parts that arrived in about 2 days. to put new bearings back in, get large washers -one for front and one for back -same size as the bearings so you will have equal pressure coming from front and back, put a long bolt thru the holes in the bearings with one of the large washers on each end. put a nut on the end of the bolt and begin to tighten. this will pull the bearings together back into their positions without ruining them and gives you equal pressure all around. be careful when you get them tight, they will fit snugly back into place. put it all back together carefully, just like you took it apart. if you labeled everything, you should have no problem putting the puzzle back together. before putting the tub pieces back together, i ran a bead of silicone caulk to prevent leaks. started it back up and runs great! fixed it for total of $72 (including shipping charges), which is a lot cheaper than buying a new washing machine. it is tedious and somewhat challenging, but if you are in any way mechanical, you shouldn't have any problems.