11081375340 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

turn off hot and cold water faucets,unplug the power,pull washer out to gain access to rear cover, remove the top control panel screws,push back and lift off, disconnect hot and cold water hoses from inlet valve and remove enough screws from the back panel to remove the valve, disconnect the valve from the tub fill hose (mine had a spring type hose clamp) note the orientataion of the hot and cold hoses and the solenoid connectors for the hot and cold sides,(mine is stamped in the rear cover)reconnect and reassemble in reverse order and check for proper operation.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

First, I unplugged it and disconnected the water hoses (the water has been off to it for days). Then, I tried taking off the back of the washing machine. This didn't work, and I actually ended up googling instructions and found pretty detailed, illustrated instructions at Popular Mechanics.
You need to unscrew the front panel that contains all of the controls first, flip it up, and unhook it from the back of the washer (via an electronics clip and 2 metal clips). The outer cover can then be taken off. I recommend undoing the internal hose next -- I used adjustable pliers to squeeze the connecter and loosen the hose. Then, unscrew the water inlet valve and take it off.

Putting everything back together literally just means reversing the instructions.

My washing machine is on a raise service, and I still haven't gotten the outer frame completely back in place correctly, but it's not touching anything or creating any problems. It's really only to safeguard parts anyways, so no worries if it's not perfect -- at least it works now!

Removed the hoses from the inlet valve. Removed screws that hold control panel in place . Removed control panel which exposed two clips that hold the top of the back panel. Removed the ground screw freeing the ground wire, removed the plastic loom which holds a bundle of wires. I next removed the plastic plate that protects the fill valve from splashed water. Removed the screw that holds the valve in place, then removed the wires and the fill hose. Reversed steps to put back together.

First I turned off the water to the washer and then removed the hot/cold water hoses going to the washer, unscrewed the water hoses from the washer, and cleaned the wire screens located immediately inside the inlet water valve. This did not solve the problem. Second, I loosened the hex head screws on the back panel of the washer. This allowed me access to the valve. I tested the valve solenoids with my ohm/volt meter and all checked out OK (but this did not make sense). Third, I surfed the web to find out if the symtoms of the washer's problem were the same as experienced by other people. I found several reports of the same symptoms, all which were solved by replacing the water inlet valve. This conformed my original diagnosis although the valve tested as OK. Fourth, I ordered the part from PartSelect, and removed the hose clamp and two mounting screws holding the old valve to the back panel of the washer and removed the old valves. Last, when the new valve arrived, I assembled the new backing plate to the new valve, attached it to the washer's back panel, attached the water hoses to the valve after fitting new rubber seals to the inside of the hoses, and reattached the washer back panel. The washer is working perfectly again.

My son did the repair. Thank God for Sons who know how to repair things. Worst thing was figuring out how to get the back off, top where dials are had to come off too. the rest was easy according to him..

I own a small, local handyman service as a Father/Son team. This repair is PERFECT for an apprentice to do as a confidence biulder. He learned the safe way to service a machine with garanteed success. This is a job anyone with basic knowledge can easily do with a little on-line homework on their machine. -Jim & Tom W.-

This was a thirty year old Kenmore washer. I removed the control frame, and then removed the two nuts holding the water inlet valve. The valve itself was easy, two water lines and one fill line. Reassembly was problematic as this valve was not exactly the same, I just tied off the valve to the water lines so it would not move.
Of course what took the most time was a run to Home Depot as the hot and cold water hoses were old and I replaced them with new.

Followed the instructions on the Part Select video which were very clear. I removed control module from top of washer, pulled the washing machine outer housing forward slightly and disengaged the rear closure panel slightly. I disconnected the electrical harness and then I was then able to remove the existing inlet valve. The new valve was then installed and the precess reversed to complete the installation.

Piece of cake!! (The water comes pouring into the machine now)

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.

removed the two screw that hold the inlet valve take hose of .the first was takeing the back of than the hoses from back hose on bottom of machine.

Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.

Our washer's cold water flow became very slow. We were living with just hot water washing for about a month. I had used PartSelect in past and have always been very satisfied with the outcome. So, I went on the site and within a couple of minutes of navigating, had the part (water inlet valve with mounting plate) on order.

I watched the repair video on the water valve ordering page. My installation went pretty much to this procedure, with one exception, I had to use the mounting plate, which I don't think was covered in the video. You have to read and follow the instruction sheet that comes with the part. Therefore, my installation instructions are to a) watch the video, b) get together all the recommended tools described in the video, c) be prepared to use the mounting plate (which uses the same 1/4 nutdriver the video says is needed).

I did the complete valve replacement and had the washer back in place in just at 30 minutes, the tight closet quarters added a bit to this time I'm sure. Working in a basement or open utility room would have been a little easier and quicker. My shortfall though is, I should have done the hose connection check (turning the supply valves back on) before making the move back into the washer space, as once I performed what I thought was my last step, turning on the supply valves, I heard a water leak. This was resolved with another 10 minutes worth of moving the washer back out, disconnecting the hose, removing the rust debris which apparently caused the leak, reconnecting the hose, and this time, checking for leaks BEFORE moving the appliance back into place. I think the time estimate of 30 minutes is good for individuals with moderate experience in appliance repair, and probably good for the novice in conjunction with the video.

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.

I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.

followed the video i found on Parts Select. Most difficult part was getting the frame back on correctly. Everything else was a breeze. Works great now.