11043902201 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

(1) Turn off water valves (2) remove water lines (3) remove three metric star screws from top/back of washer (4) remove to plate (5) remove single screw retaining water inlet valve at back of washer (6) remove electrical connections from water inlet valve and flow meter (7) loosen hose clamps at back of soap dispenser (8) remove assembly/apply new parts (9) reverse above directions. Because the plastic nipple at the back of the soap dispenser was brittle, it partially broke on me. I applied urethane glue to the break and let it dry overnight. Next day I applied marine-grade silicone sealant around the break area. That evening I assembled and then used the washer to test for leaks. Success!

Simple

Had to open the panels, remove the old drain pump and install the new one. Remember if there is water still in the hose to either take it out with a wet/dry vacuum or put towels under neither to sook the water. 15 minutes of work and your done.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.

Took old one off and put the new one on. Was very easy. Hardest part was disconnecting hose clamps, which was still easy

took front panel off. Pump is right there easy to work on. Used pliers to take 2 hose clamps off. Used star screw driver to take 2 screws off of pump and removed old pump. The Assemblely goes the same way but the drain hose coming off the tube is not very easy to get back on. Hose is flimsey and the stem, on the end of the drain pump isnt long enough to keep hose on while tring to slide hose clamp back on.

It was an easy fix,all I had to do was pull the washing machine out and remove the top off the washer,leaving everything connected,I cycled the machine to figure out where the leak was in the first place,then unpluged the washer,turned off the water and removed the water lines from the back of the washer(be sure to have a couple towels handy)disconnected the 4 color coded wires from the inlet valve making note of which color went to which relay,disconnected the hose from the inlet valve,and removed the one screw holding he valve to washer.That was all,then reversed the procedure to put it all back together. success! took about 20 min start to finish.

I read what others wrote and put two and two together and 15 mins. later I was up and running. lots to take apart but it all went smooth and no left over parts washer runs like new again

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I replaced the flow meter but that want it, so replaced the water inlet valve and that cured what ailed it. The only pain was that the single screw that holds the part to the washer is a torx rather than a nut like the rest of the back screws. Couldn't see it without pulling the washer all the way out. Hose clamp came off with pliers and the electrical connectors were TIGHT but came off with some effort. Replaced everything and error cleared ok.

Took both the screws out on the top back. Lifted up the back about 1/2 inch and slid to the back. Reached into the front of the washer where the latch was connected. Disconnected the 3 wires (plugs) attached to the latch, took out the 3 screws located inside the washer door. Took a second person just to hold the latch and bring it out after the screws were off the front inside the washer door. Put new latch in, connected the wires, put in the screws behind the washer door (3 of them) and slid the top into place and put the screws in the back. Takes longer to tell you than to do it. Remember the screw on the left side front (top) as you face the washer and remove that screw. The plastic had disintegrated on mine but am not going to replace that part until I have to.

Very easy repair, once I read the reviews and watched a couple of you tube videos. I just released the band holding the gasket in place, pulled it back, unscrewed the latch and installed a new one. Less than a 10 min job. I am glad I found this web site, thanks guys!!