11024996300 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.

After moving washer and UN-Plugging electrical. 1. Remove the 2 screws that hold the Control Panel to the lower chassis. 2. Lift the Control Panel up and forward to expose the water level switch. 3. Remove the dial. 4. Remove the old switch, (a plastic tab locks it into the panel, try to release it(from the front) with a small screwdriver, (mine broke off, releasing the switch). 5. Remove the electrical connection by lifting the connection locking tab. 6. Remove the air tube. 7. BLOW into the air tube to ensure it is not blocked. 8 . Reconnect the air tube and electrical connection. 9. Carefully install the new switch into place, turning it to line up and lock the tab into the panel. 10. Re-install the dial and return the Control Panel screws into the lower chassis. NOTE: If the included air hose needs to be replaced, the time and difficulty needed to make repairs will increase.

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We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

snapped off the 2 springs on the water pump,took off hoses with pliers,took off the 2 little screws on the motor springs.snapped off the 2 springs on the motor,and the motor came off.took out the drive coupling,it just slides off...then reverse the procedure,and you are done...

There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.

Hello the installation was real simple I first uplug machine from wall I turn off all water leading to in to the machine I then tip machine on it side I then took loose all wiring leading to the motor then motor is held up with 3 screws and 2 bands that hold it in place I reinstall the new motor coupling insert the wires and turn back on the water leading to machine then plug machine back in, every thing was good to go. . . . Save a lot of money doing it my self so simple to do. . . .

Unplug washer. Place large old towel in floor at rear of washer. Turn off and disconnect water supply lines and allow to drip dry. Place towel in floor in front of washer. Tip washer forward onto face of washer. Unplug wiring clip connector from drive motor. Remove 2 1/4 inch head screws from spring clips on bottom of motor housing. Slowly rotate clips out of the was to drop motor. Knoch top coupling piece off agitator shaft with screwdriver and light hammer. replace coupling with 5/8 deep well socket as a driver which will fit the metal insert in the coupling and not interfere with the shaft. then drive the other coupling onto the motor shaft using light hammer and drive socket(5/8) deep well. place the rubber shock connector onto the agitator drive piece then slide the motor back into the mount position. rotate the clips vback into place. tighten 1/4 head screws in clips re-attach the wiring harness tip the washer back up onto "feet" re-attach water supply lines tighten appropriately. Plug unit into receptacle and enjoy....

After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

Second time I did this. Same repair about 4 years ago. Pretty easy. Take the cabinet enclosure off, take pump off, remove motor and replace the coupling. Since the coupling is now reinforced with metal, a little more difficult to get on the drive shafts of the motor and the clutch drive?. $20.00 saved me $500.00 for now with a relatively easy repair and hopefully with reinforced part, it will last a little longer.

First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.