79642192900 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I watched a video of how to replace the pump and it showed taking the top and front off to get to it. I actually found this could be done by removing the back panel from the washer. There were two hose clamps you have to squeeze and slide up and two wires going to the pump. There are three screws holding the pump that need to be removed from the front of the washer. Once these are removed all you have to do is push a tab down and the motor slide right out. The pump assembly can also be reached from the bottom of the washer.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

During my troubleshooting, I removed the bottom to access the drain pump. I had to cut some wire ties so that I could make removing the wires easier. After checking the pump and putting everything back together, I determined that the pump itself was bad. Pump impeller should not rotate freely! After receiving new part, I installed it relatively easy. I didn't have to remove the bottom since there was enough room through the access hole. Just make sure to make where wires go before removing old part.

1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequence. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.

The machine was making a grinding noise instead of draining. I spoke with the LG rep on the 800 line and was told to call a repair man. The Parts select diagram helped me to identify the part I needed. It was clear enough that I was confident it was the right one. Three days and six screws later the machine was working fine.

1) Shut off water supplies 2) Unplug 3) Disconnect water supplies from back of washer -some water will dribble out 4) Unscrew 2 screws at back of washer top plate (the lower of the two screws on each of the plastic bumpers) 5) slide top plate back a couple inches, then lift off. 6) Carefully stuff a towel underneath the distribution hoses and valves to catch any water that escapes during replacement. 7) Snap a photo of the entire area to help identify where the hoses and electrical connections are located to aid in re-connection (or label with tape). Be sure to note the color coding on the wires in relation to how they connect to the valves. 8) Pull the electrical connector(s) off the valve assembly 9) Use pliers to loosen and slide the hose clamps off as many of the hoses as possible and pull the hoses off the valve assembly. Some hoses are hard to reach, and can be removed after the valve is detached from the washer housing. 10) Unscrew the two screws from the back of the washer body holding the valve in place. 11) Remove the valve (and any remaining hoses). 12) Attach distribution hoses to new valve 13) Place new valve into washer body and screw into place. 14) Reattach electrical connection(s). 15) Remove towel and check for any stray water 16) Place top cover on washer and slide forward to lock in place. 17) Replace screws in top cover at rear of washer (unless you plan on checking for leaks after testing) 18) Reattach water supply hoses 19) Turn on water supplies 20) Plug washer in 21) Run washer self-test to check that all water inlets operate -see note at end 22) Check for leaks at water inlet hose connections and underneath washer OPTIONAL but ADVISABLE: check for internal leaks - 23) Unplug washer 24) Remove top cover 25) check for leaks at distribution hose connections 24) Replace top cover 25) Secure screws in top cover 26) Plug in washer NOTE: Washer self-test instructions: Turn washer off. Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously, then press POWER button. Keep holding SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons until buzzer sounds twice. Release buttons. Press START/PAUSE button 4 times to test prewash inlet and listen for sound of water entering the washer. Press START/PAUSE button again for main wash inlet, press again for hot inlet, press again for steam inlet, press again for bleach inlet. Press 4 more times to get to drain cycle and watch for water to drain from tub (if any visible). Press 3 more times to turn test off. Power off washer to reset.

ordered part from Part Select and it was here very quickly,but the part came damaged (not the fault of Part Select). I ordered another one and PartSelect had it here the next day. I watched the video on how to replace it and it was very helpfull.The particular part I replaced (pump motor) does not seem very durable. I will buy an American made washer the next time I need one. I will use Partselect in the future and recomend it to others.

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

Unplug washer!!! 1. Remove retaining ring around rubber gasket with flat head screwdriver. Just slightly pry off and it will easily come off. 2. Just peel back rubber gasket on the side that the lock is on. 3. remove 2 screws from the front off the lock assembly. 4. gently reach in and lift the little plastic clip holding the wiring harness and lift straight off. If the clip is lifted it might be a little tight just use even steady pressure to pull off. 5. Reverse these instructions to replace. Note: replacing the retaining ring on the rubber is a pain. The spring has to be in the bottom. Using a couple of flathead screwdrivers you can wrangle it back in place after awhile. There is a tool that looks like a large reverse pliers that may make it easier. Anyway thats it, pretty easy. There is a youtube video that shows all of this.

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.

I received the part needed within a few days from ordering. I immediately removed the leaking part with the new part. It was a very simple install, and my washer is now leak free. If you think you cannot do these simple changes, think again, it's much easier then you may think. Remove the top cover of your washer machine by taking off the two screws in the back. Remove the hose clamp with a pair of pliers and pull off from the intake valve, of course make sure your water valve is shut off before starting. Remove the two prong clip. Using your pliers, disconnect the main hot water hose. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that holds the valve in place. Remove and discard it and replace with the new valve. Follow the steps and your done, it's that easy....TC

UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disconnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Opened rear compartment of washer and observed problem with drum shaft slipping inside of plastic motor assembly. The plastic teeth used to secure drum shaft were worn down. The part I needed was sent as an assembly but should have been sent separately for a much lower cost? The new part looked like it was of a sturdier design. All in all I saved hundreds of dollars repairing the washer my self. The woman I spoke to on the phone was really nice and very helpful.

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks