11049972603 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Followed video clip that I found online

Opened lower front panel to access the motor controller. Took a picture of the wiring attached to the front of the controller. Removed two wiring harnesses and one wire with a retainer clip. Removed the faulty controller. Inserted the new controller, replaced the wiring, using the picture to insure correct positioning (although that really wasn't necessary because the wiring clips could probably only be put in the correct places). Replaced the front cover, plugged in the washer and fired it up.

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

i tore down the "tech use only" pamphlet from inside of the machine.i am an auto tech by the way. so i got into the onboard computer of my machine using this pamphlet.the machine's computer took over and went through a series of tests, which pointed me to the correct location of the problem.i acted on that info and replaced my water inlet valve. the actual code was " FH ".

Followed video, slowly. Was easier then I expected. Everything fit perfectly.

pulled the front and top of the machine off, pulled off the old bellow, ordered the new bellow, and put the new bellow on. we looked on youtube.com for a video on repairing the machine.

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

My son pulled the washer out and found the parts that was leaking. He ordered the parts from your company. they arrived the next day and he re-pared the leaks and all is well.thank you

First I want to acknowledge Parts Select for their prompt delivery(received parts in less than two days)and their unbeatable prices(approximately 1/3 less than two local appliance repair/parts shops). Repair was straight forward a simple swap of the pump and I saved quite a few dollars.Thanks Parts Select.Any future appliance parts needs will be purchased here.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.