11027172601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.

I watched your video on how to replace the lid switch. It was right on step by step. Better than the video on youtube. Just follow the instructions on the video.

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

UNPLG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICAL OUTLET:

Open the top lid and remove the two screws that attaches the cut off switch to the top of the washing machine. Remove the screw on each end of the control panel, (they are angled down and are quite long). Now lift the control panel back over the top of itself. The plug for the cut off switch comes up from below in front of the control panel (very easy to see) and unplug it from the plug going to the control panel. I believe you have to squeeze the sides of one of the plugs to disconnect them. Once disconnected they pull apart. .

Remove the two clamps (if you are like me and can’t remember how things come off take a digital picture before removing the clamps) that attach the washer top to the back panel of the washing machine. Use a screwdriver and insert in the end of the clamp facing you of the clamp and pry the clamp upward, repeat with the other clamp.

The body of the washing machine will now easily tilt back, away from the control panel. I suggest you put something about a foot high down in the front to let the body rest on while performing the rest of the replacement. Helps keep it in place when you tilt it back up to reattach the clamps.

Take a nut driver and remove the ground wire from the body of the washer panel. There are two clamps that secure the cut off switch wire and the plastic covering to the top of the body. These clamps can be pried open to remove the wiring. No need to remove the clamps. The new switch is now ready to be installed. In the reverse sequence of removal

Replace the two screws to secure the switch to the top of the machine. Tighten them down until flush and tight. Tightly reattach the ground wire in the same hole you removed it from. Insert the wiring and plastic covering back into the clamps that you secured the old wiring and wiring cover.

Now tilt the body of the machine upward and make sure it lines up so you can align the clamps properly to the rear panel of the machine. The body will be wobbly feeling until the clamps are reseated. Insert the clamp in the rear panel first and then pull them down and forcibly insert it in the proper holes in the washer body. Repeat for the second clamp. Check to make sure everything feels tight and no longer wobbly. Tilt the control panel back down and reattach the two original screws. Remember they angle down and are quite long. It may take a couple of times to make sure they are lined up with the holes thay came out of.

Plug the machine back up. Turn the control knob to spin and close the lid. If the tub spins and then stops when the lid is raised everything is working


Hope this helps, I went into quite a bit of detail because it can appear to require a lot of knowledge for someone without mechanical experience. If you follow the instructtions you will do fine. There are also other very good instruction on here. If some of my instructions seem confusing check another poster and see if maybe they were able to explain it with less confusing language.

Bill P
Louisiana

I didn't do it but a friend of mine did. He removed the screws in the back of the machine and lift that back panel up. and from their he was able to do what needed to be done.

First ,no need to move washer.
Remove 2 screws on bottom front of control panel.
Lift panel up.
Disconnect switch plug from top of cabinet.
Remove 2 gold colored clips under panel by
prying up with 2 screwdrivers.One flathead on
front of clip the other under the center of clip.
Now you can tilt the whole cabinet forward.
Place cabinet on floor.
Remove plug connector,remove top screw to remove retaining clips X 2.
Remove 3 screws holding lid switch and ground
wire.I had to redrill groundwire hole because the
hole stripped.(No biggie if you have a drill.)
By this time you should know how to replace the
switch and cabinet.
Make sure bottom lip of cabinet is under the frame when tilting back up.
Give yourself a high-five.

I removed the two screws in the lower left and right corners of the control assembly. You then lift the assembly about an inch or two and then tilt it back. Then there are two clips shaped kind of like an S (mine were gold) connecting the back of the washer to the top of the washer. I removed these clips by prying them off with a screwdriver. Be careful, they can shoot out. Then I unhooked the electrical connector which dives into the top (its the only one). You just hold the two clips in and pull it out. Then the entire front panel and top can be pulled away. I pulled it away and then layed it flat on the ground so the front of the washer is laying on the ground and the back of the top is pointing towards the ceiling. Then I used a landry basket to prop the lit open while I went to work. First you remove two screws holding the old lid switch to the top. Then you remove the screw holding the ground wire. Then the whole lid switch assembly comes out and you pry it out from under some clips that wrap it around the bottom of the top. When you remove it, pay attention to which side of the electrical clip (the end of the assemply) faces towards you so you can put the new switch back in the correct position. Then I screwed the new assembly into the top with the two screws. Connected the green ground wire. Fenangled the tupes that protect the wire so that they could fit under the clips, and pushed the electrical connection end of the assembly through the top. Then you put the top and front back where it was, put the clips back (you clean some parts here that probably have not been cleaned in years) and fold the control assembly back down and put the two screws back in the corners. End of story and you just saved $150 bucks on some service technician who would have come see you (after telling you he or she would be there between 12 and 4) then would leave because he needs a part, then you wait two weeks, then he comes back (again between 12 and 4).

Replaced the lid assembly and it is working great.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Unplug the power. Unscrewed 2 screws on the backside of the console to removed the cabinet. Removed the 2 clips that releases the back panel from the cabinet. Disconnect the harness. Instead of removing the cabinet i just moved the washer drum around. Was plenty of room to work with. Next I removed the 2 screws that secured the lid switch to the cabinet. Moved the drum to use a wrench to unscrew the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Moved the drum to the back and used my fingers to find the clips holding the wire to the cabinet. Re-installed the new lid switch.

Inserted new drain hose thru back and snapped into place. Tipped washing machine back, clamped new hose with pliers.

Just changed out the old pump with the new one. It went very quick and smooth!

Removed broken hose and replaced with new hose. My washer will be 21 years old in January.

Very easy replacement. The new hose was more like a formed radiator hose and fit exactly.
Removed two screws at rear of control panel and separated the rear cabinet panel from the front cabinet enough to get to the water valve. I then disconnected the break hose from the valve by compressing the spring clamp. I then disconnected the other end from the washer water inlet by also releasing another spring clamp.
The new hose was installed using the same clamps. The cabinet was reassembled and washer tested for leaks.